worktop cutting

15 Nov 2003
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United Kingdom
Can anyone give me advice on cutting Kitchen worktops.
I have no mitres to cut just a cutout for a Sink and Hob.
The sink cutout is close towards one end of the worktop and there is a couple of water pipes the worktop has to goes round.Therefore the worktop could be quite weak at this point.
I assume i fit the worktop then do the cutouts while it is fitted.
I also assume that when cutting the cutout i should clamp the cutout in a way so when i'm nearly all the way round with my cutout the waste material doesn't try to rip itself away form the worktop and damage it.
Please let me know how it should be done or how you have achieved it.
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Once cut to size, place in situ and mark out the cut-outs.

Then double check!

Then place the worktop on a work bench (or the carcass unit) so that it supports the worktop as it is cut, moving as necessary (or place battens underneath straddling the width of the worktop).

Once you have made the cut outs, seal the raw edges with a couple of coats of varnish. This is important as chipboard will soak up any moisture like a sponge!

Good luck!
If using a Jigsaw to cut worktop, use a blade for laminate. This should avoid the finished side breaking whilst cutting.
If I have to cut a worktop top up what is the best way to avoid chipping the laminate using either a circular or jigsaw?
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It is recommended that you cut it from the back when cutting worktops. With a Jigsaw you will be able to get blades that are suited for cutting laminates but my choice would always be to use a circular saw with a fine toothed blade on .
Far be it for me to pontificate (I haven't cut one yet), but this is what it says with my Wickes worktop re cut-outs:

"...Then working from the decorative surface,drill through all the corners using the largest diameter drill possible, since sharp internal corners can lead to cracks forming in the laminate surface. Insure there is a minimum radius of 6 mm at each corner. Join the pre-drilled holes from the back if using a jig saw."

I assume you don't want to be using a flat bit for that, just an ordinary 12 m dia bit.

As already said, you can get laminate Jig saw blades that cut on the down stroke and therefore don't require cutting from the back - useful if the wortop is cut in situ. Don't know it they're more difficult to control.

For cutting right across the worktop, apparently you should also start at the post formed edge.

Please, anybody, feel free to contradict - preferably before I do it myself!

Just to add on, you will find it easier to use a straight timber cramp or screw to the worktop for the circular saw as a guide and use the saw very very slowly for a clean cut.
If you want to pontificate, you go right ahead, if you are over 18 it's perfectly legal.

What you read in the Wickes leaflet is correct and the simplist way to do it.

If you have a decent jigsaw and take the cut steady you can cut from the laminate with a medium cut blade, with minimium chipping, you will not see the cut once the sink is in and once you have sealed, which you must do anyway there really is no problems.
This is for the end & the worktop is in situ but just about an inch & a half too long.

Cheers for the tips, will look for a laminate bit although would a metal bit do?
There is always the old fashioned way. A hand saw, remember them! :D

Another tip, if a smooth finish (slightly softer) score the SURFACE WITH A STANLY KNIFE, THIS WILL PREVENT THE LAMINATE FROM CHIPPING OUT.

oOPS CAPS LOCK... :eek:

That's better! :D

Used to work in a shopfitting factory, sliding bed dimension saw with scoring blade... Nice! Don't think I could justify the cost tho... :cry:
ah!.. genius...
Think a handsaw probably wouldn't be as easy to use in the situation.
Tend to use handsaws all the time though as I don't like annoying the neighbours with the noise of a jigsaw at 8 in the evening.
Just re-read my post, sounds like I'm taking the mick!
The knife scoring idea is the genius bit.. will try that.
I think using a stanley knife blade can be dangerous if you not careful, I find it safe to use a formica score cutter tool similar to a tile cutter type.

See this, a very good tool
Tried using a jigsaw but it went wonky 50 mm into the cut. In the end just used a hand saw. Worked a treat.


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