WORKTOPS IN KITCHEN

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3 Feb 2004
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:LOL:
HI EVERYONE
JUST FITTED MY OWN WORKTOPS IN MY KITCHEN
TO COSTLY FOR A PROPER KITCHEN FITTER TO DO IT FOR ME
ANYWAY INSTEAD OF USING METAL THINGYS
I SAWED IT WITH A JIGSAW AND USED WHITE SILICONE
AS THE WORKTOPS ARE BLACK I THINK IT LOOKS OK
THING IS I NEED HELP PRETTY QUICK
LIKE {NOW}
IM JUST ABOUT TO CUT OUT FOR THE SINK AND HOB
IVE SET THE SINK 150 MM BACK BUT IT LOOKS LIKE IM GOING TO CUT THROUGH THE BACK SECTION OF THE WORKTOP {IS THIS RIGHT?
AS FOR THE HOB IVE CUT IT 10 MM BACK FROM THE FRONT IT IS VERY NEAR TO THE ROUND PART OF THE TOP IF THAT MAKES ANY SENSE TO ANYONE? IVE BEEN TOLD IT NEEDS TO BE NEAR THE FRONT FOR ELECTRIC REGULATIONS OF SOME KIND
ALSO IVE PUT UP MY WALL UNITS WITH NO NAILS AND JAMMED A WEDGE FROM THE OPPOSITE WALL TO KEEP THEM IN PLACE OVERNIGHT
WHILE THE STUFF GOES OFF IVE BEEN TOLD ITS VERY GOOD STUFF
SO I HAVENT EVEN SCREWED THEM OR ANYTHING
HAVE YOU SEEN THE ADVERT FOR SOLVITE WALLPAPER ADHESIVE?
THIS STUFFS SUPPOSED TO BE BETTER
ANYWAY ANY HELP WOULD BE GRAETLY APPRECIATED
THANKS IN ADVANCE
 
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wall units held on with no nails .......hmmmm dont believe all the adverts tell you, I wouldnt trust it to carry a cupboard full of crockery!! I would onlt use it in the lightest of applications or none load bearing situations.

Regards the sink, 150mm back seems a lot. Mine is set back around 75 - 100mm and it is fine.

regards the hob, I cant see the problem in having it set back a little further.
 
gotta agree with beatts :D no nails is great for picture rails Et al. but cupboards :eek:

if you read the details it does mention about not using it for shelves and the such likes... best attach them to the walls with screws but to do that now could be an interesting situation...

still i'm interested in replies to this as i'm a couple of weeks away from putting in a new worksurface my self [gulp!] - luckily all i need to do is cut the hole for the sink

best of luck matey :D
 
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I'm sure it can't be right to cut through the back section to fit your sink, mine is equal front and back, about 80mm. You need at least 50mm in order to secure along the back.

As for the wall units and No Nails, No Way! You need good long screws.
I fitted some skirting board with No Nails and because of a poor joint I decided to remove the following day. Guess what it came off easy.
You need those adlustable fittings so you can line them up easily and you unhook them off the wall for decorating.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Most standard worktops are 600 wide ( MFI 616), sinks are in the range 490-515. I always try to allow a bit more at the front than the back, (10-15), the reason for this, less of the cross rail is lost.

You have the choose when fitting a sink, in situ, or on supports away from the units. I tend to favour the first method, as I once while trying to replace the worktop back in position between 2 walls got it stuck, resulting in a break.

Nearly all sink base units suffer from a basic flaw, the front rail is designed to go front to back, it should go flat on the front, in which case it would not need cutting. I've built a few kitchens and always done it that way and it really does make life easier.
 
only kidding ladz
at least some of us found it funny
guess the others dont have a sense of humour :
 
ps decided on fixing the wall units to the wall
went out and bought cavity fixings
problem is how do they work with brown plugs on a stud wall?
 
these are good

but my concern would be fixing heavy cupboards to a piece of plasterboard, i wouldnt do it.

I would find where the "studs" are, and fix a batton to all of these, and fix cupboard to batton
 
king.module said:
still i'm interested in replies to this as i'm a couple of weeks away from putting in a new worksurface my self [gulp!] - luckily all i need to do is cut the hole for the sink
Always best to fit the sink as close as you can at the front, it's surprising how 25mm further back can give you a backache and shoulder ache pain, unless you have a dishwasher ! (I don't mean your partner :) )
 
cheers masona

never even thought about sink position causing the backpain.

i've always put that down to the height of the units - i've never found anywhere with a sink that's been the right height for me (and i'm an average 6ft) - it's quite funny how over the last 50yrs or so clothes have got bigger, bar stools have got bigger, cars... bigger... Etc..., usual work top height - the same..... :?: (still i'm only basing that on my limited experience of my family and friends kitchens (all of varying ages) and kitchen showrooms)

and in case your wondering.... yep our kitchen is the same height as everyone else's - nevermind there's always that custom kitchen to install.... when i win the lottery..... D'oh!
 
so breezer say i was fitting a kitchen in a new house or someone elses house your saying rip the plaster board of the wall and put noggings in ?
as the cupboards never work out at centres why not just use
proper cavity fixings with a molly gun?bit of grip on the back jobs a goodun
 
ivorbigun said:
so breezer say i was fitting a kitchen in a new house or someone elses house your saying rip the plaster board of the wall and put noggings in ?
as the cupboards never work out at centres why not just use
proper cavity fixings with a molly gun?bit of grip on the back jobs a goodun

i never said what you said that i said did I ? I never once suggested or implied as you said i said rip the plaster board of the wall and put noggings in ?

verdict: NOT GUILTY
 

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