Worcester 24CDi fault - help needed!

Sponsored Links
Ha ha! If only you said it before I bought a PCB!

Is it normal to have a fused spur under the stairs for a boiler in the kitchen?
 
Sponsored Links
It seems I had the same problem as dorney once had but i don't understand how did dorney solved the problem.

My old worcester 24 cdi/rsf boiler broke down another day. There is no light on at all. According to the manual it suggests a failed pcb board. I bought a new one from ebay and a new transformer as well. I managed to replace the fault pcb and the transformer according the manual.

The boiler is in a room upstairs. There is an external switch on/off with fuse-spur to control the electro-supply in kitchecn downstairs.

I turned on boiler upstairts. There is still no light on however, including the green one.I checked the electrosupply at L&N in STI2 of the mains-in with an electrocal screwdriver, the red bulb is on, same happened to Fuse 1 and the L&N in ST15 & ST1. There is no red light when I did the same checking to FUSE 2 with an electrocal screwdriver.

Could anyone please give me some clue? I appreciate indeed.


Hi everyone.

I've recently purchased a new house and two days after moving in my Worcester 24CDi has stopped working overnight.

The fault;

It doesn't seem to be receiving any power. I've checked the power going in and it's definitely there. Add to that, when you flick the boiler on, the green power light flicks on momentarily and goes off.

My friend is a British Gas boiler engineer but he lives far away from me and has tried to diagnose over the phone. He said it would likely be the fuses on the board blown or the board it self.

I've changed the fuses and no luck. Yesterday I went and bought a new board and changed it and still the same problem persists.

Does anyone have any other ideas of what this could be?

Thanks,

James

Hi everyone.

I've recently purchased a new house and two days after moving in my Worcester 24CDi has stopped working overnight.

The fault;

It doesn't seem to be receiving any power. I've checked the power going in and it's definitely there. Add to that, when you flick the boiler on, the green power light flicks on momentarily and goes off.

My friend is a British Gas boiler engineer but he lives far away from me and has tried to diagnose over the phone. He said it would likely be the fuses on the board blown or the board it self.

I've changed the fuses and no luck. Yesterday I went and bought a new board and changed it and still the same problem persists.

Does anyone have any other ideas of what this could be?

Thanks,

James
 
You dont solve problems like this with a neon screwdriver.

You need a two terminal test meter ( and know how to use it! ).

Tony
 
Thanks. I know now and I'll try. I am not sure whether I even blow the new bought pcb due to my blunder try. It seems dorney1 only changed the fuse spur?

You dont solve problems like this with a neon screwdriver.

You need a two terminal test meter ( and know how to use it! ).

Tony
 
I checked the voltage in fuse-spur and some other parts of the pcb board with a multimeter.

Fuse spur in the kitchen downstairs:
Brown the live to apliance: 238
Blue the neutral to appliance: 238

PCB upstairs:
main-supply-in live:238
main-supply-in neutral: 238
Fuse one: 238
Ns&ls&Lr in ST8: all 238
ST15 to pump: L&N both 238
ST11 to flue fan: L&N both 238
Fuse 2: only 17

the pcb mode is 87483002190 which is a bit different from my orginally one which is 8748300219. it seems i need to connect the ST18 to some cable for the new pcb board. I am not sure whether ST18 is for a timer or pragrammer. There is no timer for my boiler. I don't need to connect ST18 of my old pcb to anywhere.


When my old pcb was fitted on, I also checked the voltage.

Fuse spur in the kitchen:
Brown the live: 238
Blue the neutral 238

PCB upstairs:

main-supply-in live:238
main-supply-in neutral: 238
Fuse one: 238
Ns&ls&Lr in ST8: all 238
ST15 to spark electrode: L&N both 238
ST11 to fan: L&N both 238
Fuse 2: 220

However when the boiler is poited to 'turn off', surprisely.

main-supply-in live:238
main-supply-in neutral: 238
Fuse one: 238
Ns&ls&Lr in ST8: all 220
ST15 to pump: L&N both 220
ST11 to fan: L&N both 220
Fuse 2: 140

It looks my originally pcb has fauty since even the boiler is off there is still high voltage in some parts.
How about the one I bought freom ebay is there also faulty?

I am so confused

You dont solve problems like this with a neon screwdriver.

You need a two terminal test meter ( and know how to use it! ).

Tony
[/quote]
 
There was me reading this thinking broken neutral

But I would have ordered the PCB first and diagnosed second... obviously. ;)

We (BG) are supplied with a test kit that checks the L-N-E in one hit, gets you out of a muddle quickly, don't trust it to do anything else electrical tho.
 
Thanks. Do you mean the fault of the originally pcb board is due to broken neutral?

How about the new pcb board I fitted in. The voltage test indicates the power is there.

There was me reading this thinking broken neutral

But I would have ordered the PCB first and diagnosed second... obviously. ;)

We (BG) are supplied with a test kit that checks the L-N-E in one hit, gets you out of a muddle quickly, don't trust it to do anything else electrical tho.
 
240v on the Netural is showing a break in the Netural. Netural is earth return so you'd expect it to show no volts. If its broken it's got nowhere to flow to and becomes live like the live in.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top