If I remove the downstairs light to its own switch would this be possible.
http://www.elkay.co.uk/data/files/350A-1 and 360A-1 2 WIRE PUSH & TOUCH.PDF
how to swap 2 way switches to elkay
- Thread starter stevesouthern
- Start date
If I remove the downstairs light to its own switch would this be possible.
http://www.elkay.co.uk/data/files/350A-1 and 360A-1 2 WIRE PUSH & TOUCH.PDF
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Yes there is earth terminals in both back boxes. And the optional wire is for a different model. Universal instructions for a handful of switches which mine 760a-1 isn't one, cheers
There would be - is there a wire connected to it? However, Andy's point was that the switch does not appear to have an earth terminal, suggesting that (despite the metal front), it is a 'double insulated' one, therefore not needing an earth connection - even though we can't see the 'double insulated' symbol (a square within a square) in any of your photos.
Fair enough. Does that mean that your slave switch doesn't have a 'ring indicator light'?
Kind Regards, John
I don't think there are double insulated switches, per se.
If the switch is all plastic as in this case then obviously it cannot be earthed.
The problem, if there is one, is the metal cover of the switch which just clips on after the switch is fitted.
It is the same as if you had an attractive metal cover which clipped over a plastic socket.
This is the same as switches which are made of metal and earthed where the metal cover clips on but is only connected to earth by the very small contact of the clipping prongs.
Also, the covers do not contact the back box screws.
I presume it has been deem unnecessary to earth these covers as it is unlikely that the conductors can come into contact with them.
If the switch is all plastic as in this case then obviously it cannot be earthed.
The problem, if there is one, is the metal cover of the switch which just clips on after the switch is fitted.
It is the same as if you had an attractive metal cover which clipped over a plastic socket.
This is the same as switches which are made of metal and earthed where the metal cover clips on but is only connected to earth by the very small contact of the clipping prongs.
Also, the covers do not contact the back box screws.
I presume it has been deem unnecessary to earth these covers as it is unlikely that the conductors can come into contact with them.
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I would say that all of that is correct/true. As you say, the crucial question is whether the metal cover is likely to come into contact with any conductors - which seems very unlikely. A piece of metal obviously does not become an extraneous-c-p just because it is in proximity to an adequately insulated electrical accessory.
It was BAS, not me, who raised this issue.
Kind Regards, John
Interesting. I must say that I find it hard to envisage how the indicator ring could work with only two wires connecting the switches - but maybe they have thought of some clever approach which has not yet occurred to me!
Kind Regards, John
Not hard to do.
It's a momentary action trigger to the master switch, so the circuitry of that could be designed to support an indicator wired across the slave contacts and not leak or falsely trigger. The slave indicator going out for a fraction of a second while the button is pressed would not be a problem.
It's a momentary action trigger to the master switch, so the circuitry of that could be designed to support an indicator wired across the slave contacts and not leak or falsely trigger. The slave indicator going out for a fraction of a second while the button is pressed would not be a problem.
Remember these are TOUCH switches. I assume its a metal part which the body touches. So you can't earth that part.
Not good news if the circuit fails, but hopefully that has been mitigated.
You get touch metal lamps.
Where did you buy them from ?
Not good news if the circuit fails, but hopefully that has been mitigated.
You get touch metal lamps.
Where did you buy them from ?
I suppose it depends upon what the 'indicator light' is meant to do. I had assumed (yes, I know!) that it 'indicated' the toggle state of the switch at the master. If that is the case, it would be a bit more complicated than you suggest. If, of course, the indicator light 'indicates' nothing functionally (but is merely a way of locating the button in the dark - being always lit unless the button is pressed), then what you suggest would work.
Kind Regards, John
So what would you advise. Wire them up as my last pics and keep the hall light seperate or could is wire it into the same joints as the upstairs. Thanks
The literature appears to refer to both touch and push versions - and I can't work out which the OP has.
Kind Regards, John
I think you need something like this downstairs.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-GANG-25...al_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item58a538f0b7
well 16mm deep maybe more suitable
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Flus...pplies_Electrical_ET&var=&hash=item4170a6dd95
with your touch switch one side
and a standard switch the other side (operating downstairs light).
e.g
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRUSHED-C...al_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item4adaeeb4e3
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-GANG-25...al_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item58a538f0b7
well 16mm deep maybe more suitable
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Flus...pplies_Electrical_ET&var=&hash=item4170a6dd95
with your touch switch one side
and a standard switch the other side (operating downstairs light).
e.g
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRUSHED-C...al_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item4adaeeb4e3
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Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
Sorry, they are touch time delay switches.
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