Recent content by anybloodyid

I think not. the weight of the cross bearers alone would be too much. Loft timbers are only designed to hold the plaster ceiling. One of the reasons cracks appear when too much weight is placed on them from above.

Exactly !

Sounds like you only need underlay act as a cushion between chipboard and laminate, just get the standard underlay on a roll from any flooring/diy outlet.

Compliant and Safe are a long way from each other. Ask inspector if he is prepared to issue a certificate/letter to say they have been inspected and passed as compliant and up to the safety standards required by the council. Don't hold your breath though!

Could you not just use 4" x 2" timbers with 6" thunder bolts, the type that screw straight in to masonry.

Was there originally a wall up the side of the stairs that has been removed? How to decorate the edge of the treads is a good question, You could trim the treads back a bit and then place a piece of timber on the end to make it flush with the string or replace the treads and let them run past...

Had a look at the pics and it's a rum job to say the least, once rain hits those screws and they rust that's the end of the stairs.

What you suggest may work but I wouldn't chance it as the kingspan is not sat on a flat surface but straddled across joist and I suspect it will fail at these points. You don't really need more headroom if it's only for storage of light weight items. I would go for the stilts and definately...

Not looked at pictures but just using 3 screws in each side to fix the tread is not the best method. You could remove the stairs and use a housing joint for the treads to sit in then glue and screw. or you can put metal rods under some of the treads to pull the strings together or place blocks...

I personally would never use the loft space as a storage area, having said that plenty of people do. If you are looking to use it for light storage then the loft stilts will work fine. If you are intending to put a lot of weight up there then cross battens is the way to go. Don't follow...

You can use either tiles or laminate, it's what you like best. Obviously the laminate flooring must be of the type that is recommended for use with underfloor heating. I've laid both tiles and laminate for customers and both work just as well with underfloor heating.

Thanks for the explanation, I know regs have changed but not being a sparky I have no need to read or understand them. I'll put him in touch with a spark.

Yes I want it to be a ring circuit out of unit loop through each of the four sockets and then back to unit to make ring main. I've watched some you tube videos but don't really trust them. that's why I came here. I'm a carpenter by trade 40yrs, and have done basic electrical work for myself...

I understand the neutrals need to go to the neutral busbar and the earths to the earth busbar, i just wanted to know if the earth/neutral wire returning went under the same screw as where they started or under the screw next to where they started or is it the same result which ever way it's...

Thanks to all for clear and understandable instructions. If I could please ask one more question, it's not worth starting a new thread as it still relates to the same garage. He wants sockets in the garage. So out of the consumer unit, in and out of each socket and back to consumer unit...