Recent content by ashdene

Thanks guys for your replies, ive had no joy from the enginner, in order to reduce the 300mm depth ive now had to opt for a 225 x100 on each hip rafter. I suppose it will be useful if i ever decide to land a helicopter on the roof :?

All rafters are 150x50 there is also a structural Ashlar wall to form a room upstairs, this wall will support the hip timber on it's way down so the total unsupported span will be 4.5m and yet he is still asking for 2 lengths of 225x50 joined together with bolts giving a total hip size of...

In the process of having an extension and loft conversion on my bungalow but appear to have a problem with the structural engineers calcs. My existing hip rafters are 5" x1.5" and approx 7m long. Now the engineer has specified that the new hip rafters on the back need to be 12" x2" :shock...

So many ways to achieve a 0.2 rating for insulating my roof for my loft conversion, but which is the cheapest way as far as materials are concerned? I am doing it myself and I have lots of time but budget is an important factor for materials. Ive seen cellotex between joists then TLX multi...

Im having all sorts of problems trying to find the Wooden I-Joist sizes specified on my plans so im now thinking of going for standard timber joists, this will work out slightly cheaper too. They have to go on 400mm centers to match the roof but what size should I go for, its for a loft...

What would work out cheaper, using solid timber joists for my loft conversion or using the engineered timber I-joists. I need about 64 of them all about 4.5 meters long. cheers

AS above, Ive just put in the lintel specified above my 3.6m bi-fold doors in my new bungalow extension. The lintel had to be an extra heavy duty catnic style. Having now done some further measuring it would appear that the top of the lintel is now too high for the wall plate to go on top and...

The room is 4.8m x 5m, I will have room for a small rad but im limited for space as one wall is glass, the other wall will have a huge TV so rad will look **** below that, half of one wall is open into dining room (2 large rads in there) and the other wall will be seating area.

Thanks for your post I deffinately want to introduce some airflow of some sorts to help distribute the heat through the room, could easily fabricate a slimline unit with a few small fans in to do this, may even buy one of those ugly rad booster things and rip the insides out of that.

Why didn;t I think of that :wink: Not an option unfortunately

I have a large radiator mounted behind my sofa, unfortunately there is no wall space to move it elsewhere in the room, is there anything I can do to increase its output, ive seen the fan units that sit on top but they look **** and make a noise, is there a better fan unit that I could mount...

I will probably use the wickes ones as they have done me well in the past, but to be honest id rather get the bifolds right and then chose windowes to match

I will soon be needing a set of 3.6 metre wide Bi-Fold doors as well as 2 sets of 1500mm wide french doors and a 1200mm wide window. The french doors and the window are all off the shelf items but they will need to match the Bi-folds, which is where Im after some advice: They will be going...

Thats great news thanks very much, So if I do it as you say, does that mean I can go straight ontop of DPC with thermolites? I will still need to trim a bit off the first course to line up with external brickwork height so my wall ties will lay flat, but thermo's are much easier to cut than...

Thanks for the response, im really hoping there is another way, I don;t see the point in laying the membrane and filling the oversite before I knock down the existing external walls as im just going to end up with an infill section to sort out between new floor and existing floor :?: ive...