Recent content by Ben B

Thanks, I wanted to check I wasn't doing anything daft!

I like the look of a simple square undermount sink for our utility room, but the budget calls for a cheaper worktop, white laminate, not a solid stone, composite or anything. Would there be any issue over-mounting an undermount sink? All I can see may be an issue, is the neatness of the finish...

The hole is to fit one 12x3 (280mmx75mm approx I guess) and there are plenty like that available, in cheap plastic and thin ali finishes. But all the heavyweight, nice chunky chrome looking ones are either 250x75mm (the right height but too narrow) or about 290x100 (The right width but too tall)...

I've recently repainted my front door and wanted to replace the cheap nasty looking letterbox with a smarter one, I replaced or polished other door furniture and the latterbox flap really lets it down. The current opening in the (metal) front door fits a plastic liner part of the current...

Since I last posted here and read people's comments I've managed to really improve the heat of the converted room. The door was a little drafty due to the lock not quite fitting. Did some adjusting and now there's no cold draft. Also some sockets on the wall adjoining the cavity wall were...

I'll see if I can find anyone local who does refilling, I do remember thinking lots fell out

It's supposed to have insulation pumped into the cavity isn't it, I know as plenty fell out as we cut through the doorway! Perhaps I should get someone to make some holes and fill them back up, but the lower section should definitely have insulation

Thanks all so much for the replies. I'm going to definitely get a heating engineer round, now I'm slightly more confident the room isn't completely 'broken'! There are a couple of small draughts, a couple of plug sockets, and where I've routed cables into the wall for a tidy TV installation, and...

I converted my garage a few years ago, followed all advice from the building regs officer and did everything by the book, but the room is so cold in the winter and I've had enough! Now I want to get to the bottom of it! The front (old garage door) has a window now, and now 150mm celotex (I...

I've seen it in writing I'm sure, in the installation manual, 'make sure it's kept away from metal objects, as they communicate wirelessly, even if connected by wires'. I may have to just check with a volt meter, see if t1 and t2 are carrying power Thanks for the help!

I've installed a Google Nest Thermostat that I picked up used from CEX. The Heat Link powers up, and the screen powers up by USB cable. All is working, synced, controlling the heating etc... however - If I connect the heatlink T1 and T2 to the screen - using the wiring already in the wall (in...

My internal doors have a different type of hinge to any I typically see for sale. One has a broken plastic part, causing the door to start sagging, so I'm trying to find a replacement for it, before it fails completely and I'm left with a door hanging off! (All the other doors in my house are a...

I'm about to fit a quadrant shower, to replace a dated unit on tiled walls, and I'm going to be using shower wall panels. I've seen one shower tray listed for sale that showed a diagram of the fitting - with the wall panel fitted to the room first - all the way to the floor and the shower tray...

Awesome, thanks for the reply!

I'm about to tile a concrete floor in a new extension. It's got a concrete floor, rough, not machined smooth. (It's been finished about a year, but it's actually never been tiled on yet, so still bare concrete.) I can't find a definitive answer for whether I should prime the concrete or not...