Recent content by BillyBilly

Scrit - Thank you for your very detailed reply to my post of 18th April - apologies for not responding sooner. So, could I stain the external wood first, then apply two coats of shellac, and then finish with a coloured lacquer, varnish or wax? Or can't I do that? Could I just use a...

Hello, I'm not certain that I've posted in the correct category here - but I'm sure the 'Boss' will decide that point. :wink: Having made a small, 3 drawer cabinet from redwood, I would very much like to know how to treat/stain the product. My main concerns are that the knots and any...

Well, thank you for your discerning and valuable input, Big All. I'm sure that I'll have a few more questions in the weeks to come and will look forward to using this site again.

Hello, Thanks to all those who offered advice previously on the subject of pineboard. As promised, here's the update; I picked up two sheets, had them cut in half, stuck them in the back of my car and then drove for an hour and a half home. So, I thought that you would be interested...

Jason - thanks for that. What a useful bit of information. I have tried to make the gap as small as possible but didn't think to actually cut a wooden fence with the bit to get no gap at all. Great :D Big All - Your suggestion: . Is this to avoid edge splitting?

My experience at routing is only a touch better than my knowledge about pineboard :lol: I'm using a table and fence, so I have ditched most of the bearings. So far I have obtained a smart edge to the product, which I am happy with. The real problem that I encountered was routing the...

Big All That's the general idea. Should be interesting. I'm going to apply quite a dark finish to the product so the joins in the board shouldn't be too noticeable. Have you used pineboard before? I guess that the outside edges will route just like plank wood? But I guess the glue...

Hi I'm not using runners as such. One shaped single piece of pineboard will be used for the area where the drawer sits/runs, and the same piece will be the front division to separate the drawers. Hope that makes sense :lol:

Big All, The answer is small - about 90mm high, 240mm wide, 190mm deep, with two or three drawers. This is why I need 10mm material. I don't think it would look 'balanced' if I used 18mm :wink: Thanks for your input on the subject. Let's hope the 10mm doesn't cup like the 12mm plank did.

Thanks Big All and Jason. From your comments, I'm going to give the 10mm a go. I'll let you know the outcome in a couple of weeks.

Thanks Big All. From your reply I summise that 10mm laminated should, in theory, be more stable than 10mm (or 12mm) plank wood. The lads at the joinery shop back door are all big drinkers :wink: Good talking to you.

Thanks for that Big All. I'm using some very narrow, but relatively long screws ie 3mm head x 8mm long, and they 'grab' excellently. I am also using glue as a back up. I've produced one cabinet using 12mm redwood (not pineboard) and the finished product is super, apart from the fact that...

Hi, Thanks for your reply Big All. Point taken. But is pineboard likely to warp and twist less than 'normal wooden planks' ? Thanks

Hello, Thanks for your previous replies on the subject of pineboard. I have managed to find a UK supplier of 10mm pineboard - the size, and especially the weight, suit me fine. So my question is as follows; Is 10mm pineboard a stable material which is not subject to 'cupping' ? I...

Hi, Thanks again for your replies. The weight of the cabinet is paramount, hence me looking for 12mm, but I am going to try 18mm and see what the result is. The cabinet is very small, with drawers and I thought that thinner woood would be more appropriate to the design. Interesting to...