Another thread ruck. :-)
While Dan's advice is better (even hawkeye acknowledges that) there are ways to post without patronising. That understandably peeves ppl off.
Even worse are forum sycophants.
This is a DIY forum. I appreciate all the input from professionals but if a DIYer is...
If it works fine otherwise it may be simple repair and save you some hassle.
The leak could be a rad/pipe or the discharge valve that normally exits out the back of the boiler. Otherwise known as a PRV.
Check the boiler manual for start up sequence.
If it's down to the boiler then there would normally be damp internally too. If I'm reading you right the airing cupboard where it's installed isn't even on an outiside wall? In which case it seems very unlikely. Plus the two pics are of different locations.
The damp proof course is visible...
What's below the boiler - is there any appliance such as a washing machine etc? Have you looked for leaks on the inside?
I can't see where your damp proof course is from the pic. Are you sure someone hasn't built above it with the decking and stonework and caused the issue?
What do you mean by pulsates?
Typically 0.5 is the min pressure required when cold. But can depend on the boiler. Check your manual. Is the filling loop you're referring to a flexible metal braided one?
My experience with Vailant goes back many years. Crappy plastic aerators that used to melt and expansion vessels that leaked. It was a long time ago and they may well be amazing now. But for me it's etched in and I wouldn't buy one out of choice.
Very early plastic pipes had this issue. I think it was a bigger issue in North America.
I would only use compression fittings where I could see them or were easily accessible.
Thanks for the update. I wasn't going to remove the second trap anyway! :-)
Did check the trap and it was absolutely caked. Also replaced the PCB because I suspected the intermittent on/off was down to it. Everything working fine now. A big thanks.
Just a bit peeved with the Gas Safe...