Recent content by Ch_152

Cheers, I'd seen this image on a different thread in the past (was that your thread, or were you just replying to it?). I never really understood how it could work well with the stat only being the length of the short element and I'm glad you've confirmed that as being a thing.

Unfortunately top entry, dual element immersion heaters seem to be relatively few and far between. What do you mean when you refer to "dual height thermostats would be an incredibly simple fix for the issue of sink/bath"? Presumably that if JohnW's simplified theory held then you would only...

After all theory is one thing and anecdotal, practical experience another. I have come round to it being the case that it would probably not be of benefit for me to change the whole cylinder. Either for comfort/ease of use reasons (because, as you say, in practice I'd notice little difference)...

I see where you're coming from, but as the hot water rises through the cylinder from the bottom it will definitely dissipate heat into the surrounding body of water on its way to the top. I understand it will be hottest at the top though. By minimising the distance the hot water has to travel...

Very interesting, I can see the use for that. Definitely above my pay grade to build and implement though!

I think we're saying the same thing. I am not a plumber or heating engineer, but surely if I had for argument's sake a 10" element and a 20" element of the same rating, then the 20" element is going to distribute the energy into twice as much water therefore it would take twice as long (maybe...

As I have been for the last 10 days since the immersion heater died! It’s not quite so good for washing hands though…

On cost and the wider considerations of whether this would be worth it: My initial post was intended to figure out whether this was possible, electrically. As a number of you mention, the cost of replacing the cylinder entirely probably needs to be weighed up against any tangible benefit to me...

Thanks for all these replies, very informative stuff. @ericmark I'd seen a few of your posts about the Willis system - these are interesting. You're right in that it's probably worth me weighing the cost of changing the whole cylinder vs the potential savings (which are likely to be minimal) by...

The plan (or at least, the idea I was exploring) is to replace the existing tank with a twin element unit. I'm not on E7 at the moment (I was) but on Octopus Agile - which is similar in that it has low rates during the night (and for most of the day) but much higher during peak times. The...

Current cylinder is a single top entry immersion element, and it’s wide on a simple manual time clock

The instructions for the following unit actually seem to suggest that it would not be possible to run the two elements at the same time, My fears of potentially overloading shouldn’t be a problem. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTRTM7N.html Thanks for your help

Seems to be the norm for E7 cylinders. Bottom unit operates at night to heat whole tank, and if needed to top up during the day (e.g Mrs has a bath) I don't need to heat the whole tank, so just use the top element to heat the top part to get through the washing up. Inefficient turning on a...

Yeah, basically cheap rate at night. Okay, that timer (or similar) looks like an option - thanks. It's not explicit in stating that the boost element would automatically turn off when the normal element turns on, though. Although the setting of the boost time should help in that respect.

I have Octopus Agile (but was on Economy 7, and use it to heat water at night). So there is no issue running both immersion elements off the same circuit, provided they're controlled not to come on at the same time? Am I right in my assumption that I definitely could not run both at the same...