Recent content by daddym

Can anyone advise??? We have a 1930s semi and at the back of the house is a bay window (5 yr old UPVC) with a small pitched slate "roof" ontop. The window projects 350mm from the back wall and has small side windows. We really want to open this room up into the garden, and I'd like to get...

Thanks but what if there isn't one fitted? Or do you mean we should fit one? There was an electric fire when we moved in, and when we put the living flame gas fire in, the Corgi installer checked the chimney and said it was all original and clean.

I have an average 1930s semi. When it is even just slightly breezy, there is a repetative tapping / pinging sound in the chimney breast (upstairs). It is definitely not dripping water - sounds almost like a metal ruler twanging against brickwork and picks up pace in line with the wind...

No and No. Hardibacker is designed to be used "out of the box" as it were. If it makes you feel better though, use a proper tiling primer - not PVA. Priming never does any harm (unless it's PVA).

This is exactly why people should consider using a Professional Tiler. A Professional tiler will be able to "work around" the unevenness of your wall, basically by gradually increasing the amount of adhesive either side the lump, making the run of tiles smooth.

I've bought some stripped 1930s internal doors which are (i think) pitch pine. They've been pretty well chemically stripped but they have that common yellowish tinge which I ideally want to get to a mid oak colour. I've tried various waxes, stains and varnishes but they are either too thin...

I have stripped some windowsills in my own house as carefully as I can and they have come up great apart from slight red staining on the upvc trims. The nitromors picked up some of the red lead and has "melted" into the trim. Does anybody know a good way of cleaning the stain up? The...

from a local hardware place but I think some of the large DIY stores stock it also.

i'd suggest then that the glaze is rubbish and porous. Where did you get them from? I have successfully used Lithofin cement residue remover to clean grout stains before.

What are/were your tiles? Ceramic / glazed / porcelain / sealed / unsealed / marble / travertine ???

Butech is just a brand name - personally I always trust BAL. You have a few options: Hardibacker 9mm or "no more ply" would be ok screwed securely onto the existing floor, helping to reduce flex. WBP ply would also help reduce flex, but use minimum 12mm onto existing floor or 24mm...

You will certainly need a wet cutter with a good glass specific blade. plasplugs cutters can be had for around £30 with a reasonable glass blade about £12. Make sure you file sharp edges with a diamond file, as these can be razor sharp. Also use white adhesive and aim for 100% coverage...

Just something to check: make sure the grout is a flexible floor grout and is suitable for porcelain. Porcelain tiles require a specific additive. See: http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/bal/bal_products/superflex_wide_joint.asp I've used BAL for ages now and with the PorcelBond additive I've...

Cheers JohnD, That does it now - it's going! It IS scabby - I knew all along it looked pap. "Character" she says.... Why do I even listen? :shock: Nice smooth walls - here I come :wink: