Recent content by david3456

Plumbers fitting oversized boilers seems to be a general problem. I have an Ecotec 424 which can only modulate down to 6kW but the setting goes in 1kW steps up to "Auto". Strange yours has a lowest setting above its minimum power. Anyway, like you, I put a temperature monitor on it. I discovered...

Both ends of the radiator do exactly the same thing. In combination, they provide a resistance to water flow, up to a maximum set by the fixed end.

Same here. I haven't even bothered to balance my radiators. I have seven Hive TRVs monitored by Home Assistant on a Raspberry that shows they don't need it. The TRVs find a balance point and only adjust by small amounts. (Hive TRVs show up as Danfoss) I also break the "rule" that says that a...

I have just fitted a Hive thermostat and two TRVs. The system works correctly with the new thermostat and standard TRVs and I have balanced the system so that demand for the boiler is removed before or more or less as the TRVs shut down. The idea of fitting the Hive TRVs was to be able to set a...

A few clues on the RCD helped the diagnosis. Thanks. It's gone through a cold wash and some spin cycles. A new heater now on order.

It's about 2005-ish. It ran for about 5 minutes until the drum filled. Perhaps the heater has become electrically porous. OK, found it now. So it appears it should more sensitive than the one in the CU, it's not that the CU is detecting something a type A would not.

We have just switched on the washing machine for the first time after a CU change. Needless to say, it trips the RCD. We then discover this in the machine instructions: I know there are different ways of fault detection but I can't find any reference to this symbol. What is this type and is...

10-40 mm... 7kN/m2... Order placed. Thanks.

Thanks. Do you really mean concrete, not mortar? The 30mm is the combined mortar and spacer lift so the aim is start with 10mm of mortar with no spacer at one corner and thicken the mortar elsewhere, reaching perhaps 15 + 15 at the worst point. Perhaps the thing that concerns me is not the...

I am converting part of a garage to utility area and want to raise the floor to house floor level. (The area is to be sealed from the garage with fire break.) My idea is to make footings from two 45x95 timbers resting on mortar beds onto the existing concrete floor then lay joists over these...

Thank you. I know about the need for 100mm of masonary at the base of the wall but I expect there are a few more issues to uncover.

I want to convert the part of the garage that is integral to the house to a utility room. It is currently a double garage and a quarter of it is under the main house. There is a pillar in the middle supporting the corner of the house so it is a matter of separating it off by filling in two gaps...

Useful additional responses. I intended to put a run of bricks down anyway so I that can hose down the garage floor. Interesting about skimmed plasterboard. It seems that retardant plasterboard with filled gaps should do the same job. Any other cover would improve on it.

The idea is the plywood forms the outer mechanical barrier on the garage side. There wouldn't be much point putting it under plasterboard! So it appears that stagger and pl4000 means 3 layers of pb, whatever. Useful information.

Hmmm. I thought plasterboard was a fire-break. At the moment the only barrier is a sheet of plasterboard under the bedroom floor joists. That's how the house was built 40 years ago. Have the rules changed? What would I need to add to make it sufficient?