Recent content by Doc M

@foxhole But you didn't answer the post. Says all we need to know about you and your trolling. It appears that you don't know the answer to my question. No shame in that F Hole! :LOL:

@foxhole Based on your posts on here, it looks like you could use the money. ;)

You also said, "Can’t be totally flat with grout lines." The tiles pass the credit card lippage test. I've looked at some of your post history. You have form with your meaningless and unhelpful one-liners in response to members who simply come on here to ask for help. You sir are a provocateur...

@foxhole Grout lines are 1.5mm and the surface across all tiles is as flat as can be. The tiles are large and there are only a few of them. I've even tried sticking down a piece of peel and stick onto a section of abraded tile with no grout lines - hence no tenting or any kind of tile lip. No...

I'm still undecided on this and haven't got round to it. Turns out that the wire brush to abrade the tiles works intermittently. In all my days looking at forums and videos on all things DIY, this one takes the cake. There's practically nothing out there on this. Overboarding with ply works...

Wow! And elegantly expressed too. I am extremely grateful to you for posting that. I may have made a mountain out of a molehill. I'll hold off buying extension tails for now. Thanks again terryplumb! Sounds like you are an actual or retired plumber. I feel your advice has been golden. I will...

I agree that there's no need for the extension tails. I'll be drilling new holes as I've re-tiled the bathroom. At the point after I've marked the bracket positions and undone the nuts to remove the rad, I will have to lift the rad up and away from the wall. After drilling and inserting plugs...

The initial post is overly wordy and confusing, hence my subsequent post (#5). It appears that lowering the brackets is doable after the rad is attached to the valves which is what I'll be doing. My #5 post explains the problem as I understand it. I'm not a plumber so I may have overlooked...

@terryplumb your comment of "The brackets that hold the radiator can often be lowered by approximately 5 or 6 millimetres" pushed me in the right direction. If I can't move the pipework upwards just a little to attach the nuts to the valves (I can't) then I have to lower the rad onto the valves...

The pipework is copper microbore 10mm. The amount of play in the pipe isn't enough to attach the nuts to the valves. No wonder the previous homeowner ended up with all four wall clamps at a slight angle below the horizontal so he could drop the rad onto the valves and tighten the nuts. I came...

Apologies for making this post overly wordy. In a nutshell, that nut in first pic (that will be sticking out the bottom of the rad) has to not hit the valve when I offer the rad to the wall. So there's a gap of a few milli that I can't bridge as there's no play in the pipe. How to get the nut...

Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by that.

Hello Folks, I am in the process of swapping out an old chrome curved towel rail for a new taller one. I will use the existing valves. There is absolutely no vertical play in the pipe (as the microbore pipework is buried in a solid wall) making it difficult to attach the chrome towel radiator...

:)

To answer my own question, I used a wire brush to abrade the tiles. As we have no interest in reverting back to the existing large black shiny porcelain tiles, this solution works well for us. Thanks to those that replied! :-)