Recent content by doogle2009

Whats best to sit the tray on? wood? blocks? and does the tray need support in the centre or just round the perimeter? the tray size is 800x1400 if this helps. thanx for the help Doogle

Hi, i am about to install a stoneresin shower tray onto a concrete floor, do i need to raise the tray for the waste to fit under - if so whats the best way to do this? If not when the waste pipe goes outside under the floor, can this go straight into a manhole? drain? and does it need a none...

i always run batons ontop of the ceiling, oposite way to the joists and fix them so theres a baton on each join of the boards. pulls the boards up tight, nice n level and stops the boards from curving etc n following the pattern of the existing ceiling. This makes it easy for fixing the boards...

any suggestions wot i can for for the gap? my plan was to use 3 inch skirting which wouldnt cover the gap, and i dont really want to screed the floor with a new membrane as it would then be on a different level to the rest of the downstairs. thanks for the help

sorry the damp proof is 1 course up but still quite a gap. i presume the floor is done from when the house was built - 60s or 70s. it goes rite threw to the kitchen where it luks like there is a membrane under the screed where i had to repair the floor. i presume its still the original dpc to...

ok thanx very much al giv it a try :D

Hi, im just in the middle of renovating a house and currently DnD the downstairs toilet. The DPC is 2 course up inside, ive always been shown to board above this then often screed, floating floor or whatever decided are put down but as this is an old house all the floors are done and level...

i see, so you have to fit the bead wen you put the reveals in?

stop bead on the inside of the window reveal??

just skimmed a boarded ceiling today with 2 patches of bonding, plenty of pva, didnt make a difference to drying time while working. could see it drying bit quicker once we had done but thats it. btw rc, direct n to the point is what people want. always very helpful :)

:?

same, wouldnt use the multi, bonding probably best. no idea on the regs tho? may even need insulated boards?

Decide your own daily rate and work out the length of time for the job + materials on top. as long as you can plaster at a reasonable speed then you should be ok. n yes £300 would be very good competative price n not bad for 2 days :D