Recent content by ETAF

i have some everbuild D4 adhesive , thier website says 6mths shelf life , and i purchased around 2018 , and still using - and seems to glue very well , stuck some mouldings onto a load of doors - 2 strips each on 10 doors and not had any problems, just used the glue - but i guess who knows, if...

if you are going to change all the fronts yourself , then its just undoing 2 screws (maybe covers) maybe and measuring the depth Photo of the socket faces anyway

maybe they had old stock - what was the product and maybe look at the website for that product - see if gives a shelf life

depending on what you want to water and how much flow you need - maybe a pond pump or a water butt pump...

like for like i would expect that to blow if a problem with the hood so have a spare one

wow - thats would not be my understanding of ready assembled either - i think howdens with the exception of a corner cupboard all came assembled for my daughter do you have x days to sort out if parts damaged or missing , i know when i was going around places for kitchens and bathroom, one of...

ok, so first thing would be to remove the fuse and see if its blown , that switch is ON , unless wired up wrongly

yep with a multimeter - do you have one and know how to use maybe some photos would help - and the electricians on the forum may reply who are more experiance if they where all in the same block - blacks and reds - i would expect a trip or fuse to blow as often the black is from the switch is...

not sure what you mean , ceiling rose see this site showing a typical ceiling rose light connection with 3 wires https://flameport.com/electric/lighting_circuits/lighting_ceiling_rose_other_colours.cs4 SO Not 1 block - but 3 separate blocks in same fitting

3 cables most likely - 1st cable - power IN (L,N&E) and then 2nd cable power OUT(L,N&E) to continue supply to the next light , and 3rd (L,SW-L&E) back to the switch to provide a switched LIVE to the bathroom, if really old then likely NO earths

i was not saying that - just picking up on a NEW BUILD generally , nothing to do with the question really , just i heard of the TIP only last week and read also on a forum recently

make sure any connections are ON the copper and not insulation , seen this quite a few times , where the screw is not making proper contact OR are they all wago type connectors

good point about the snag surveyor , a friend of a friend did this on a new build and found LOADS of issues which the builder then HAD to put right .... I think even on the forums its been mentioned , only found out about such a thing last week when staying with said friend They found things...

i would guess it may also depend on the sparky who put it in , if they supplied the kit as you are planning to replace them all - you will need to take the old ones OFF anyway- BUT before doing you could just unscrew the front plate and then measure the backbox depth should be quite easy to do...

do you have a mulitmeter and know how to use - so you can check the power going to the hood looks more like it goes to the control switches , and then a cable comes down to the motor - difficult to see exactly - BUT you would need to see where that greyish wire goes - IF not to the switches -...