Recent content by glerwill

Yes, the bitumen paint is still on and still intact, and yes I'd like to cover it with the valspar masonry paint, and yes I'd prefer not to have a black coloured paint at the bottom of the house! Thank you for replying - at 100 views and no replies I got to wondering a bit! I'd like to...

Hi, I live in a poured twin leaf concrete house. There is no dpc because of the type of construction. The house came with a black stripe along the bottom of each wall, which I assume is bitumen or similar paint to resist water splashes when it rains. I'm painting the house in b and q '15...

Thanks - pretty much what I expected ... but hoped that the brass circles that the taps fit onto with the grub screw would be a standard size... looks like replace the whole lot or try and do something with the grub screw

Hi, I fitted a three tap mixer control inset into a tiled wall. It was a bit of a pig to put in and replacement would involve taking bath out, breaking tiles/retiling etc. The backing plate is a chrome rectangle and is dented. There are 3 taps - the bottom one fills the bath, the middle...

thats just it, I think - you would have to ask for PP for a single van caravan site - almost certain to be refused - wales has determined they have 'enough capacity, so no more. The plus side is construction rules for a residential van are a lot easier than building regs. My theory is ask...

Thanks for the swift reply b3taman The problems I had envisioned with planning permission are height and with construction, overall weight, rather than complying with building regs as such. I'm 55 I want something warm, easy to self build and cheap - I don't care about getting a mortgage...

Ok, bit of an unusual question, but could you use the foundations/concrete slab and residential caravan chassis 15ft wide/40ft long and then build to normal household building regs/planning permission rather tan one for a caravan site? The logic is that the concrete slab and caravan...

So, I took the lack of replies as 'crack on'. I will start tomorrow by marking out the speedy joists and attaching them to the timber 175 x 47 and attach to the wall with 135 x 10 frame fixings. I note that these are 'medium' weight rated so I am going to use some 10 x 60 heavy duty...

Hi, I'm ready to start the job now. The 47 x 175 joists and 18 mm WBP plywood are coming from a local timber merchant - bandq and wickes did not have the joist sizes -£389 incl vat/delivery. I am intending to use the simpson strongtie timber joist hangers from wickes with the joists...

thanks for the quick reply Ive the garage door to do first then replace the roof after that

Hi, I intend to replace the flat (it has a fall from front to rear) roof on the garage, which is currently wriggly tin supported by metal tubes (yes that good a leaking bodge job!) with a fairly standard timber roof. There is already a 'lip' on the side of the house at the correct fall...

i know it's christmas.......but any hints welcome...

Hi, we have a concrete poured house with a cavity. the garage was originally separate but a previous owner has put a door in the 'alleyway' and perspex over the gap. the kitchen door would go into the garage if it was rebuilt up to the side of the house. the current garage roof slopes...

Thanks for replying mountainwalker - about 20 inches

Hi, a friend has acquired an ex military concrete building which he wishes to make habitable and insulate. How could he deal with the insertion of a damp proof course and damp proof the floor. Would it be better to insulate and render on the outside? or insulate on the inside? rgds G