Recent content by Harry Bloomfield

I prefer to free them on my drive, when I have need to free them - and safer. Simply driving back and forward, applying the brakes hard, usually does the trick. The smear of copper-slip, on the hub face, prevents it for later removals.

I would suggest that is nonsense, and neither achievable, nor desirable. My humidity sensor/recorder, is on my landing. At this moment it reads a very acceptable 61%RH. It's record varies between 50 and 70%RH. The human body will find the atmosphere too dry, and uncomfortable, if it falls much...

Good luck with repairing a commutator in that state!

It looks like copper, maybe from the commutator.

That's one improvement as a result of fibre - RF doesn't bother it at all :-)

This site seems to be OK at the moment, but my speed is down from normal, and Youtube doesn't work at all.

For the motorbike, I adapted a pair of old toothbrush heads, both mounted face to face hinged on a bit of steel for the job - so it cleaned off both sides at the same time.

After my fibre install, I did plan to get around to removing my now, completely redundant copper line myself - Then I read, that OpenReach would do it, if asked, and for free. I eventually found the form, here - https://openreach.my.salesforce-sites.com/form/?NRV Once completed, last Friday...

The Western World, imports most of it's manufactured items, from Asia, to resell. So there is often little, if any difference. My very old system, was a mix of German, plus a mishmash of items I devised myself, to extend its capabilities. It was mostly intended to be a visual deterrent. Around 1...

This began, with me just looking to replace my bell box, with a new bell box, perhaps as a visual deterrent, it then morphed into an idea to do a new system. I ended up ordering a fancy Chinese system, which supports both wireless, and a wired system, wifi and mobile dialling, or sma to warn of...

I smear some red brake grease, around the piston lip/under the piston dust seal. I also smear some copper grease on the back of the pad, plus where the alloy wheel makes contact with the hub. The latter trick, helps prevent the wheel 'welding' itself to the hub.

Could be slow, and hard work, depending on the masonry you intend drilling. Most people recommend an SDS drill, plus bit.

Yes!

That looks really dodgy, and needs to be thoroughly checked out before putting into service. 9000w 240v = 37.5amps, but it may draw a little more, depending on at what actual voltage 220, or 240v it was measured. A 45amp circuit should be adequate. Your supply, in the Coppex, does not look adequate.

Should of asked him to do a smaller area first, to check the finish, before asking him to do the rest.