Recent content by Harry Bloomfield

Nope, not at all!

Lag only where the pipe heat loss might serve no purpose in warming a space, or where less warmth is needed.

Spot on!

That is similar to my recollection, I remember buying an early Nokia, in around '93, on Orange. The weird Orange TV ads, just mentioned 'The world being Orange', with no explanation of just what was orange :-)

I did similar, except with an 8080, and static ram up to the limit of a massive 64k, but wrote a rather clever word processor, in BASIC. The BASIC, rapidly ran out of ram, so I ended up having to design a 'memory paging system', a sort of precursor to what the BBC eventually made good use of...

To a large extent, yes! The spring pressure, would take up any slack, from the lead deformation, whereas a screw terminal would simply remain lose, until someone came along and tightened it.

Lead, is much more 'fluid', than copper, or brass, both of which are much more resilient to deformation.

We've been in the garden, all morning, painting, drilling, modifying the lounger thingummy, to make it higher, until it got too hot out there. Came in and I'd missed a call from hospital, three hour before. I was just about to attempt to ring them back, when they rang me... They were making the...

I never got to 'play' with it, but my uni had an absolutely magnificent beast of an analogue computer, in a large, polished wood case. I'm not even sure anyone there, knew how to 'drive' it.

And then, was roughly when I built my first 'computer'. All I remember of it was a rather crude display, and a crude hex keypad, but a computer, you could program with instructions. What I built later in that decade, was very much more advanced, and ended up as an S100.

He did say, it went flat, whilst stood, but... Connect a dc 20v meter across the battery terminals. Engine off, it should show maybe 12.5v -ish. Start the engine, it should show 14.0v/14.5v. Turn everything on, and it should still show close to 14v.

Have you considered using a PIR(S), rather than timers? You fit them, where hot water is likely to be needed, to then run the pump, to provide the instant hot water at the tap. You walk in the bathroom, the pump starts up, triggered by the PIR. When you vacate the bathroom, the pump switches...

Nah, it just has to be custard!

There are lots of possibilities, you start, by measuring the actual level of discharge, then if there is one, pull fuses for circuits out one by one, until the discharge disappears. All modern cars do have a normal level of discharge, usually between 10 and 40mA, just to maintain alarm, ECU's...

Exactly, which was why I suggested on page 1 of this thread...