Recent content by Harry Bloomfield

Yes, how gas was supplied, has varied since it was first installed... As above, it looks like a very old gas appliance stub, where a bit of rubber pipe was pushed onto the stub, leading to the appliance, with a tap to turn the gas on. Normally, I would expect to see one, indoors, adjacent to an...

I was watching a TV program t'other day, where lots of otherwise homeless people, and deliberately homeless, had bought themselves a motorhome, to live in, and were wild camping for free around the UK. Some in wilder parts, some in their employer's car parks. If your 'anxiety', is proper...

Do you have a newish, yellow pipe to your gas meter?

I just did!

Why? Just make a pig tail of the flexies, and take the copper up higher, where you can work on it more easily, and keep an eye on it for leaks. Leaks are more likely from the flixies, as they get older, than the copper.

The longer the refuelling delay, the more inclined one becomes, to risk running out.

That appears to be the dropper resistor, for the timer electronics - they do tend to overheat, with no airflow.

As above, it is choked up with limescale, which causes inadequate cold water flow. As a result of inadequate flow, the water gets too hot, which causes the TCO to trip. It might be choked internally, or at the spray head. Soaking in lemon juice/vinegar/limescale descaller will dissolve it.

You will find that some of the 'bigots', are indeed themselves coloured, so how do you account, or cope with that?

Do you tell your insurers, every time you change your shirt?

There, I corrected that for you. Sometimes, you just have to apply a bit of basic, common sense to what you read. If what you change on a vehicle, does materially affect the safety, handling, braking, or speed, then the insurco will have no interest at all.

The answer seems to be no.... If the system fails to 'see' mains voltage, and frequency, they are designed to shut down on safety grounds. You wouldn't want it back feeding, or exporting, if mains was lost, because the mains might well have been deliberately isolated, whilst an engineer is...

Brass is just as easy as copper pipe and fittings, to solder. It just has more thermal mass, and so needs more heat to be applied. When joining copper to brass, it can help to tin the brass first, and once tinned, concentrate most of the flame on the brass part, rather than the copper.

Didn't DNJ ???

Your first step is, get a suitable replacement start capacitor, and connect it temporarily in place of the assumed faulty one, then test it. You can make the temporary connections in a variety of ways, including choc-blocks, crimps, or at a pinch - simply twisted together tightly, and taped up.