Recent content by JPH/01

About 25 years ago I fitted a boiler at a sewage treatment works,this had a nu-way burner designed for natural gas. After some advise from nu-way and a bit of trial and error it ran very well on the methane harvested directly from the works.

There is nothing wrong with the O/P playing with his own boiler, the problem is the oftec "training" and registration procedure, there are to many people posting on various forums asking basic or daft questions, these people all claim a full set of oftec tickets. I am angry at oftec and the...

OFTEC is now a joke and posts like the above prove it.

Intermitent faults are the worst, can you tell us what has been replaced so far ?. Is the tank lower or higher than the boiler ?.

Anyone with their own swimming pool can afford to pay to get this fixed by a competent service engineer .

Remove the old electrode block and check for tracking to the nozzle holder. was the blast tube wet ?, if it was dry than look at faulty coil.

Kent oil meters are a good one, we fitted a few years ago and have never had any problems with them.

Myson is the boiler make, what is the model ?, mectron is the burner !. 28 and 35 are the normal grades of fuel, you can only burn 35 at high level (flue) and in a non condensing boiler. Look for a new "boiler man" as this is basic stuff that anyone competent should know.

Duff coils on new pumps do happen !

do you have a bypass? is the system balanced properly?.

Attend site fist thing in the morning after its locked out, remove burner and look at blast tube, if its wet(oil) replace EBI, if its dry change the coil. These are the 2 most common faults on a sterling for the problem you describe.

Combis are expensive to maintain, my advise is go for a non system boiler and fit a separate sealed system pack, s-plan and unvented cylinder.

I would fit the check valves on the flows coming out of the pump, within the first foot or so if practical. What do you think of the warmflow combi ?, I have only worked on their regular and condensing kit which was straightforward enough.

Yes roy, unfortunatley you do have to cut the pipe, the flap check valves are bulky and need 22mm iron to coppers, so could be a tight fit in a combi. The old flap type check valves are bullet proof, all of the so called heating type spring loaded ones I have looked at are to restrictive and...

If you mean the internal check valve, than YES prone to collecting crud. They come out easily with a large flat screwdriver, I then take a leaf from SMC'S book and cut in a seperate brass flap type.