Recent content by Kes10

ohh please! You should be embarrassed

I am making a valid point, which now you have no answer to. I apologise if I am not fully "forum" converted like you yet. ermm....really i dont have the time to. Have fun policing the forum. :wink:

i didnt know there needed to be a date range on this...its a forum. Not a live show. There was no other answer to them at all, so it was helpfull to anyone that reads this thread...otherwise what the point in keeping the threads at all ? If thats the case, then should the forum admin...

I didnt know that was an issue.... Its not like im posting in a basement issue section and trying to promote car insurance. The post was helpfull, the product was helpfull. ok, so we are all not as clued up with grammer as you. Well done! amazing!

That was not a helpfull post then ?

Is not spam, im trying to help! its a topic that interests me. Dont be so rude.

Hello Marsaday, this is a delayed responce, but hope it helps. Perforating the sump pump is more for rising water table. If this is what you require then you would really only need to perforate it say the top quarter of the unit. These give the unit more capacity to handle water coming...

Sound like its the water table rising up into your basement. The old style "tanking" was never a fool proof way of fixing a wet basement as water will always find the weakest point and still get in. This could be caused by even the slightest movement in the house creating a crack. Times...

nogoodatfaultfinding..... I have 2 tanks above the cylinder, a large one which feed the cylinder and a smaller on which is the expansion tank ? from the larger tank i have a pipe which goes directly into the bottom of the cylinder with a tap half way. Is there some point i can open to...

When i drained the 5ltr or so water out the bottom rad, it was black for about 3ltr of it then ran clear. from below the pump it T's off, one goes to cental heating with that honeywell box and the other goes to the cylinder with a tap in between (nothing else)

ok, I have no idea where you are talking about ? can you dumb it down a little for me... :o)

Yeah its deffo spinning, though whether its spinning quick enough ? I took the big screw off and can see it spinning, it has 3 speeds and ive tried the system on them all. Ive tried draining some water out the system from the outlet valve on the rad downstairs, about 5 ltr...which quickly...

yes theres hot water to and from the valve. the rads are only luke warm due to the boiler switching itself off. After about 15 mins it kicks back in again, only to go off again a few minutes later.

2 pipes into the valve.... Also, the switch on the honeywell valve seems broken, it just loose when i go the switch it. How do i tell if its on manual or not ?? I can kill the power and open the box ? but what am i looking for ?

ok ill go lock that into manual, this wont have a bad effect in the long run though ? If you mean pipes into the boiler, there is two...both hot