Recent content by Matthew Bester

I did wonder this. I wasn't sure how easily it would bend. Ignoring that 5-degree error would be the easiest solution.

That's an excellent point about the rafter line, I hadn't consdiered that... it probably would be wonky and after all that effort too. I like that. Noggins first and last to get it dead straight then stagger them as I go. I think this wins out. Now to make some noggins 72mm by x by x...

No, it is solely for the top track. As its the roof it needs to be a "deflection track". That means the vertical studs and plasterboard are not attached to the top track so that the wall can't accidentally become load bearing if the roof shifted, say for example if it snowed.

I have the same issue but my angled rafters are at 40-degree pitch. I was going to use tilt fillet/arris rail but they are all 45⁰ and it shows. Noone near me wants to cut down the profile to 40⁰ for me... Any suggestions?

I have the same issue except my sloping ceiling is 40 degree angle. What method is best to shave down a 45 degree fillet/arris to the required 40?

I honestly thought a tilt fillet would be the easiest thing. I could even attach top plate to it to make sure it was straight. Noggins is possible but more cuts and it'll be harder to keep it straight. I do wonder what stud & track guys do in this situation.

It is for a partition wall in the loft made from metal stud and track. The top track runs perpendicular to the rafters at an angle (40-degree) offset from ridge sadly. This timber (marked red) is to give the top plate a flat surface to attach to, cancel out the slope of the rafters.

Not terribly. Can be rough sawn. 73mm base and 40-degree angle are most important. This rounds out to be about 62mm on the side and 95mm on the hippopotenuse, some tolerance there.

Yeah sounds that way. I was quite shocked by the apathy over the phone. Having said that, I've just rung Lawsons and the chap there suggested electric planer. You've suggested table saw. So I think between the two I can cobble something together at the fraction of the cost of the joinery...

I tried that with the one that sells this piece but they said the machines can't/won't be recalibrated for small job. Asked a few others, no response. Tried a joinery and got the eye watering quote and even then it would be shorter than I need.

I need a long (5.1m) length of tilt/fillet or arris rail BUT with a 40-degree angle. I found this and it was pretty close, I am considering purchasing a tool to do the job myself because the carpenters I approached don't seem interested and the quote I recieved was twice the price of the entire...

Useally I am the same, but I want to interfere with the existing timbers as little as possible. I redone my diagram to show more: White is exisiting structure, Blue is the metal stud wall and Red the proposed noggins. There is a Tie (now pictured) across where the wall would go. I can build...

There is a purlin (not pictured I realise) its about chest height is that not doing that job above as you've drawn?

I like your first suggestion the most. I had not considered this, add an extra rafter in the spot I need it. Do you recon this could be added without disturbing the felt and tiles? How best to attach it top and bottom?

I wish to build a metal stud wall to partition my loft, there is a loadbearing brick wall I can build upon BUT if built there the ceiling runner ends up centered parallel with the rafters and have nothing to attach to. The best I have come up with is adding some noggins (in red) 600mm apart...