Recent content by MrTeeny

Fitting a new tap but the new flexible connector is a screw on with silicon seal , like the ones that go into a washing machine etc, rather than the old flexible one that sealed to the pipe with a nut and copper olive. Any idea of what adapter I can get, did think of maybe using an isolator...

It's an old air raid shelter secure isn't the word for it. But no chance of kids swinging off it plus it doesn't stick out much or even gonna be high up

Thanks , seems cheap enough.

Partner wants some garden ornament sticking to an external bricks wall. Concrete with a flat bottom and probably weighs 2kg max. Any idea what's best to use, construction adhesive etc. I've used heavy duty no more nails once outside for a birdbox and it didn't even manage to keep that on the...

Thanks Ken, yes I can get in under the stairs as I've done stuff under there before. I'm sure there weren't many brick piers which is why it's all a bit bouncy. There are honeycomb supporting walls under there but unfortunately one access point to get all under the hallway into the other rooms...

It's an old 30's built house with suspended floor and reckon it's possible some packing has fallen off the brick piers or they've sunk slightly over time. The joists probably span a little under 4 metres in the main rooms where it's a bit bouncy and probably only a couple of brick piers to break...

Yep a UVC patio door

Thanks, that looks the perfect solution. I doubt I'd ever be locked outside blup, they're just patio doors, I've never opened them from outside in all the 10 years I've lived at the address. Like John says there's a back door and front door. I was looking to replace them cos of the snapping and...

Looking to replace the euro barrels in my patio doors to something more modern i.e. not as easy to snap. Is there any reason why I would need to have the lock on either side or were they just cheaper to buy like that because they're also used in front doors etc. I can't think of any time I've...

The transmitter doesn't have a problem switching on the heater but doesn't seem to switch it off unless it's very close to the receiver. Does anyone have an idea of what could be wrong or how to fix it? It's one of the older 434MHZ ones. I thought it might be a problem with the range but the...

Thanks for the replies, the fuse board was only recently upgraded so the RCD protection is there and nothing else on the lighting circuit like smoke alarms. So it seems it's OK to do then and more a case of trying to ensure it's idiot proof to avoid anyone sticking some load other than the...

I've just installed a new TV in the bedroom mounted on a built in wardrobe and wondering if there's any valid reason in the regs why I can't power it from the lighting circuit. It's a LED TV with max power of 40W and any socket would be inside the built in wardrobe around head height so no...

Thanks for the replies guys , all makes sense, the bulb is a 100W and that and the current shade is likely to be the problem as I guess the current shade is basically insulating the heat in as it's some stupid almost wicker type shade. Blame the missus not me :( No problems with the...

Only this light in the downstairs circuit seems to have any problems, the circuits not exceeding the max number of watts and under 5 amps even if every light was on which they never are. It's the first light in the circuit if that makes any difference

Thanks again, I think I'll go down the route of assuming it'll tiled as it shouldn't be too much extra work and 25mm isn't much higher than the existing boards. The expansion makes sense so I'll have to check under the current tiles see what's there. I'm assuming it's something like concrete...