Recent content by RoughWaters

Monument tap spanner is a good en

The only sensible answer is that the new rads are a much more efficient at transferring heat (probably convectors) and the old rads (probably pannels) are much less efficient at transfering heat so they are warmer to the touch. You have answered your own question by saying the return to these...

if your doing it yourself id just change the o ring. Or get a mixer with stainless flexis not copper they would be easier for you. just two compression nuts hopefully :D

new o ring - use silicon grease aswell. clear off any corrosion. You could change those - done much worse. long socket or monoblock tap socket.

check location of pump feed/vent. Sounds like no circulation check not pumping over when on. Valves - pump valves - check tappings not corroded closed. I have seen brass pump valves almost closed with corrosion (couldnt poke solder through :lol: ) that would never power flush out.

does the boiler sound like its got air in it? bubbling/banging?

Is the rad that fill with air behind the pump. Because 'air' is molecularly smaller than water it is possible for micro leaks to take air in under negative pressure from the pump, but not to leak water when the pump is off. I would however imagine that its a more basic plumbing issue...

It will make balancing even more tedious. Really 6mm - That wants ripping out unless the rad is the size of a mars bar. 15 mm is ideal. With what you have said about your system id search hard and find a decent plumber. I would hazard a guess to say its pipe work related.

Can you draw a crude scetch showing location of pump in relation to proposed valve. it may not be as simple as you think. think how you wire it to come on as a stand alone circuit. If I understand what you mean you would need the origional part on to work the spur. Usually cicuits are zoned...

assuming its sized correctly pipe centers etc and floor coverings are not preventing heat escaping it should balance out. What if anything do you know about the floor construction? what flow rates are you getting?

pressure switch + vessel (bigger is better) + pump = job done. Just make sure the pump has enough oomph. I run a 20 bar pump from my well (about 400m away and 130m lower) which delivers 6 bar and 65 litres p/m to my stoptap. Guessing the bore hole company sized it appropriatly and provided...

Fine mist is probably as a result of the pressure in the system. Was it open vented before? Is it just that its different. If you havnt bled for 3 months i would just keep an eye on it. Im guessing inhibitor was added after the clean and all the cleanser thouroughly flushed out prior. If it...

Have you got three rads back to back on microbore? Obviously other problem is wiring. Check rad valves working. If only luke warm and no obstructions then pipes maybe undersized. Have rads been added onto end of 8mm runs?

vent then feed should be within 6 inches BEFORE the pump. Anything else could cause to air being dragged in. On your system feed and vent could instead be from gravity primaries on cylinder. Just one possibility to look at.

You certainly cant just cap them off. Put a temporary rad in.