Recent content by SirBob

Thanks for the advice gents. Will contact them and see what they can advise, hopefully something sensible that will look good in the end. Fingers crossed!

This is outside, but the door is under a canopy so doesn't get wet, therefore no rot risk if I bead. If I go back to them not sure what my complaint is nor what they could do other than bead as discussed.

Managed to upload a pic, hopefully making things clearer. I think this shows the problem. Frame, then silicon, then glass. Beading might be the way to go - extra effort in the short term, and possibly a little more bulk round the frame, but perhaps better than the alternative of clear...

I did consider this, but I was put off by the fact that the silicon isn't uniform from the edge of the rebate to the glass (cos of the rebate not being even), and the silicon itself being clear rather than white. That being the case I would end up with a not straight boundary between paint and...

Hi all, I've just had single glazing replaced with double in a wooden door which has been stripped back to bare wood. The units have been bedded in with silicon, such that the gap between the glass and rebate is filled with the stuff (where previously the original putty had been). I now...

Thanks for your rely wilsonspaints1990, but I think you might have misunderstood my situation. I have small flecks of rust from steel wool in paintwork on wooden skirting (and will again if I prep/paint the same way in future). Aren't rust converters for use on metal surfaces, or is the...

Hi all, I recently stripped some skirting with stripper & steel wool and a door with a heat gun. After painting with a water-based primer/undercoat and then oil based gloss I now see small rust marks on the skirting but not on the door. Am I correct in thinking that the rust is the...

No fuse holder, just a plain old single switch in that slightly yellowed plastic that you get in old houses.

Hi all, I have a couple of rooms with light switches at skirting board height which don't appear to have any effect when switching them - no lights or appliances operate regardless of their position. What is the most appropriate course of action. Thanks.

Quite right, my OP should detail that the PL is redundant not the SL. But I'm OK just to insulate the PL and leave it in situ, no further action required?

Hi all, I am replacing a timed extractor fan (live/neutral/switched live) with a non timed version (live/neutral). Once identified what is the appropriate thing to do with the SL that will be unused? Is it sufficient to adequately wrap it up and leave it, or should I take more drastic...