Recent content by Snacker

I'll check that first then. Do you mean the main stop tap to the house or could there be others elsewhere in the system?

No, there's no plumbing in the loft at all. I stripped the last of it out when I did a partial loft conversion not long after moving in, and even that was just leftover bits of pipe that the plumber who fitted the boiler couldn't be bothered to remove, patch up holes in walls and ceilings etc...

Thanks for the replies. To answer the questions, the boiler is downstairs in the kitchen and it's a combi boiler with no header tank or hot water cylinder. Out of interest I also checked flow rates last night and, in isolation, they're actually good. E.g. the water comes out of each bath tap at...

I live in a mid 1970s detached house with a new combi boiler system fitted 5 years ago, but with what I suspect is the original bathroom suite and plumbing. I'd like to fix a really annoying problem with the taps in the bathroom sink. If I flush the toilet then turn on the hot tap in the sink...

I finally got time to do my caulking last night but still haven't got round to overpainting it yet as some other prep work took much longer than hoped. I'll update when I do as the Soudal stuff I used only cost £1 for a tube, but I can say that as of this morning it's coped fine with gaps...

Cheers. That's good news. I'll put the sealant away then :D

I've read that expanded foam insulation such as Celotex, Kingspan etc gradually degasses over the years as the blowing agent (heptane?) seeps out of the pores in the foam and is replaced with air, so that eventually it has an insulation U value similar to that of standard mineral wool. The...

If the plasterboard is so thin and flexible that your tiles/joints are cracking then I can understand why adding more courses of tiles would be pointless. They should have used at least 12.5mm board to tile onto but it sounds like this isn't the case. Ok, another possible option then. Maybe...

Yeah that's virtually the same stuff that I've used in the past. Just make sure you're very careful with masking up anywhere that you don't want to paint because it won't take much overspray to make a mess of a nice shiny finish. If you can take the handle off and paint it separately then all...

It's a fair question; I thought exactly the same when I first cracked the lid off the tub, but it was recommended to me by a painter and decorator mate who won't touch PVA with a bargepole so whatever it is it's not the same stuff.

I'm confused :? I may well be missing something, but I'm saying that if for example you've got your bath, then 4 courses of tiles on the walls, you could add another 2, 3, 4 or whatever courses above them to increase the height of the tiled area. Forgive these numpty diagrams but hopefully...

You might find this useful. Zinsser stuff is top-notch too: http://www.zinsseruk.com/how-to-guide/how-to-paint-over-mould/

This is referring to mould on walls, but I don't see why you couldn't apply the same process to wood, finishing off with the Perma-White semi-gloss: http://www.zinsseruk.com/how-to-guide/how-to-paint-over-mould/ http://www.zinsseruk.com/product/perma-white-interior/ I haven't used Zinsser...

I'll soon find out how it copes with smaller gaps as all of the ones I need to sort out are less than 5mm. :lol: I've never used it before and am going off positive feedback and information found here: http://traditionalpainter.com/painting-attention-to-detail-with-joints...

Whenever I've repainted metal in the past I've always started with an acid-etch primer and then used automotive paint for the top coat. You might also be able to use this to prime it: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00EZ3ENYM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 I've...