Recent content by Sneezin

thanks that sounds a safer plan!

oh right yes It wouldn't be required with levers anyhow, is there any other way rather then doing this bung blocking in the loft tank since its very unsafe up there since no loft boards, one foot and ill probably go through the ceiling.

thanks that does make better sense now, explains why I was unable to work on the hot water tap side in kitchen I will consider lever valves now. This bunging of cold water cistern/loft tank, sounds like a bit of work perhaps having never done this, could a plumber fit an lever valve or isolator...

Hi I have an issue, I have a system boiler downstairs with a hot water cylinder directly above it upstairs and then the hot water cylinder is connected to a cold water tank in the loft. I have a stop cock tap in the front of my house under a flap, another stop cock under the kitchen tap. I...

thanks for the great advice, I think I won't chance anything and just get a plumber in from watersafe org (hopefully a good one!) and get him to do the job properly, that is sound advice ill let him get all the parts brand new no point risking anything. Good to know it should take roughly an...

Hi thanks for all the replies I did consider ptfe tape or jointing compound but the coppers slimmer and not good really, its possible it works but id like to get it done right. Yes the copper pipe work is squashed sadly just where the brass olive sits on some of them I guess a decade of over...

Hi I have weeping leaks coming from all nearly all my isolation valves, (hot and cold taps) and even others, my pipe works ancient maybe 40+ years old and so are all those isolation valves and other fixtures. I did remove 2 of them to try to replace them..... but they still leak, so I looked...

Yeah roughly a quarter turn, I tend to hand tight the isolation valve for example as hand tight as a I can and then roughly a quarter turn if not less obviously you reach that point where its pretty strong and don't want to over do it or damage something. Yeah I can certainly understand not...

Hi I live in a very high limescale area, its very difficult to keep my existing grohe kitchen sink clean with limescale forming quickly on it. I have tried several sprays, HG limescale and other similar products etc No space in kitchen sink and kitchen is too small for a water softener...

I would ideally do the same but found even doing compression fittings hand tight followed by a few nips of the old wrench it can still have a weeping leak but these are much older fittings and older pipe work (probably 50+ years). Sometimes I can nip it up a bit more and it stops the weeping...

thanks, sounds like what I would be trying to do also will use the copper olives. I think I will use some steel wool and clean off my copper pipe work and check for any damage and yes I might have over-tightened the nut and olive so will check the pipe work quality but it should be fine no leaks...

Hi newbie around here and to the world of plumbing, but great forums and vibe here. I just wanted to double check valve, I plan on re-doing some of my kitchen plumbing and replacing some compression fittings mainly isolation valves with the ones with little black tap handles since the old ones...

thanks nice to have some peace of mind :) Everything has been working fine for past few weeks so all well

No hammer noise so guess it was just that loose bolt, thanks for all the input and advice matter resolved !

thank you moderator was unable to find that edit profile option, all fixed. Heard no click noise and new dimmer is doing 100% fine in this old british home! It would have been nice to get confirmation though if a light switch has 2 identical red wires if you can put them in either L1 or L2...