Recent content by veedee

My pattress box with top entry has a gap between the cable and the hole How can I fill this in? What material(s) are suitable? I also made a 20mm hole in the ceiling for the cable to pass through the ceiling. What material can I use to fill the gap between the cable and plasterboard? I would...

Thanks lads. Some great suggestions. Think the easiest/quickest way will be to just clad it with something like 9mm Ply or melamine. Surprisingly, they don't. If you want the headboard, you have to buy the entire bed. I have no idea what you are suggesting. :mrgreen:

Ikea Malm bed has impact damage on the headboard and I wanted to know the best way to repair/salvage this. The headboard is constructed with the following - Particleboard, - Fibreboard, - Plastic edging - Honeycomb structure paper filling

Okay, I will remove the sleeving and just leave the spare, unused core in the earth connector block. Thanks Would a sparky likely have understood if it was labelled 'U' for 'unused?' Only asking as the Wago 221 2-way connector blocks I have are tiny. I probably wouldn't be able to label and...

Took the words right out of mouth. Personally, it doesn't feel right to connect an unused core to earth connector block. I know what's going on.. but in a few years time, I may forget, or the next person may not have a clue what's going on. At the moment, the core is sleeved with earth...

2 Core & Earth - £38.99 3 Core & Earth - £55.27 The cost to call a spark (or DIY the job) would far exceed £16.28 In my location, sparkies are charging a minimum of £70 just to step foot in your house. Also, if walls/ceilings are chopped and chased, your likely to need a plasterer, decorator...

To create a new light fitting, I took power from an existing ceiling rose using 3 core and Earth. So I have a spare core, which i placed in a Wago 221 connector Based on what you've said, I shouldn't have done this as the extra core needs to be grounded? So to abide by best practice/safety...

With 3-core and earth - The lighting circuit is future proofed (e.g. many smart switches require neutral at the switch) - You have neutral, COM and Switched live at both the light fitting and switch. So if the user wishes to extend the the lighting circuit in the future, they have the option...

I'm a Nest guy. Love them. Just wish they'd switch off the heat quicker when nobodies home.

Many thanks JW

I am trying to run some cable in the ceiling to create a new lighting point. However, I have a walls and ceiling held together by metal studs Can the sparkies explain the easiest/ quickest way to drill through the metal to feed the cable? What bits/tools do need? Also do I need to take any...

Are you referring to the white seal marked up in the pic? If so, can you just replace the seal and keep the entire flush unit or is it advisable to replace the entire thing? I don't want to come back to this job just for the sake of saving a few pennies Is it okay to use CT1 as your silicone...

Toilet has the following issues - Cistern is slow to fill. However this speeds up when you open up either basin or bath tap. - Water is constantly trickling into toilet bowl I inherited the toilet, so do not know whether it has always been like this Pics added of toilet cistern internals...

I said 'electrics is easy' two days ago.. This thread was created two weeks ago, so not sure how posters could assume i already knew what tests to do.. You also conveniently missed the part where i said Couldn't imagine why you'd leave that out. Anyway guys, I wont be changing a thing or...

I didn't mention your name as I didn't want to risk throwing you under the bus :giggle: So people are calling for 'testing' but they haven't mentioned what I should do specifically? I really hope this is a joke. I planned to go over the thread and undertake any necessary remedial work/tests...