Help me choose the right system - Please

mark740 · 5 Oct 2015

Funny thing is i was just typing below

Dean - Thanks for the PM

I have been reading about he ATAG and Tbh i like most have been guilty of discounting anything other than WB/Valliant.

Looks of a product do not bother me hence i choose to have a Miele WM rather than the new fancy Dan Samsung internet connected WiFI etc etc

Edit - sorry posted before i was finished

I think that i am leaning towards the combi option as I'm sure it would outperform my current set-up and if i have never had mains pressure hot i don't suppose i will miss it.
Its very rare for both showers to be used together and TBH my gravity fed one must have quite a poor flow rate and the Mrs hasn't complained.....(not about the shower anyway)

I keep coming back to the space id be saving too.

I really do appreciate the time people have taken to offer advice.

dilalio · 6 Oct 2015

mark740 said:
Tbh i like most have been guilty of discounting anything other than WB/Valliant.

They both spend lots of money on marketing/incentives to make ppl do exactly that!

I also weighed up the space saving I would make by getting rid of CWS & HWS tanks as my two boys need all the space they can get in their "bunk room" & we're also considering a loft conversion, so getting the loft clear helps that!

Also less system components to fail, leak! All of this is what swayed me.

mark740 · 6 Oct 2015

As for putting a combi in the loft can the flue go out through the roof ?, as the gable end of my house is the other side to the current pipework etc, this would mean all the pipework would have to transverse the loft, if it was to be mounted on the party wall and the flue went through the roof it would be ideal.

Agile · 6 Oct 2015

I would say a cylinder and a heat only boiler is likely to be more reliable than any combi.

The cost is likely to be about the same as converting to a combi too! That's assuming you can manage with a cylinder of about 210 litres.

Tony

mark740 · 6 Oct 2015

is 210 ltr not enough then ?

mark740 · 6 Oct 2015

I didnt mean that to sound rude Tony, i really am not sure how much hot water is enough ...or too much etc

Can a flue be vented via the roof ?

dilalio · 6 Oct 2015

mark740 said:
Can a flue be vented via the roof ?

Sure can. Limitations apply.

Agile · 7 Oct 2015

The rule of thumb that I work to is 50 li plus 50 li per person. But that's a more generous figure meaning it will still cover people with more than average hot water use.

But others often use a lower figure.

My friend who used to teach HVAC used to use the figure of 37 li per person. ( Amusingly to me he had to go away to look it up. )

But a lot of these taught figures are what are used for social housing calculations and in my experience private owner occupiers often have higher expectations when they are paying their own money for a system. Car owners expect a seat in their own cars. But if they go on public buses or trains some are expected to be happy standing for the whole journey!

But using the 37 li figure for your two adults and two children you will be well covered.

Tony

mark740 · 7 Oct 2015

Thanks tony .

What are the limitations of having the flue vent via the roof then ?

dilalio · 7 Oct 2015

I probably should have said "regulations" rather than limitations! But in basic terms, without seeing site conditions, loft installations are just more involved due to access inside and out. Your installer will have to get on the pitch of the roof with a 'mate' on the inside, remove tiles, install a lead slate around the flue, redress tiles, any lead work etc and inside the boiler may need a frame built, non combustible backing panel if on timber etc etc. Also as previously mentioned other services to and from the boiler have to be considered as well as the proximity of any velux windows, neighbouring windows etc.
Your installer will be able to ascertain all of these variables and site the unit accordingly.

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Help me choose the right system - Please

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