Putting power sockets in the loft

Depends on what cable you plan to run up to the loft. If flex, then a flex outlet plate would be my suggestion, but most of those are bottom entry.
If you are using trunking then don’t use a patress box, use the existing back box and fit a cooker outlet plate mounted upside down.
The trunking will probably butt up to the plate.

Something like this maybe

 
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You don't need to put a surface box on top of the recessed box you can just run the trunking down to the switch then chisel out a small channel and the cable can go into the recessed box or as TTC suggested an accessory but upside down, he also mentioned a flex outlet plate with bottom exit but top exit if upside down... ie
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Click Mode 13A Fused Spur

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Last edited:
Hi All, sorry for the lack of updates. I've had this awful bug that's been going round but now on the mend. I checked earlier and the immersion switch in the main electric box is 16A.

Will it still be OK to use this switch in the cupboard to run power into the loft or will I need to get someone in to change it to a 32A one.

Thanks.

Brett
 
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BrettRogersUK said:
Hi All, sorry for the lack of updates. I've had this awful bug that's been going round but now on the mend. I checked earlier and the immersion switch in the main electric box is 16A.

Will it still be OK to use this switch in the cupboard to run power into the loft or will I need to get someone in to change it to a 32A one.
Click to expand...

A 16amp supply should be all you need.
 
EFLImpudence said:
No you cannot do that without increasing the size of the cable. 16A will be fine.
Click to expand...
Maybe go to 20A or 25A if your model of consumer unit has them but being realistic 16A is plenty for what you have described as the others have already stated.
 
D

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