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We are in a 1930s bungalow and thinking of getting a loft conversion done. Roof is pitched and slated on all four sides but also has a concrete corbel running around the perimeter. The visible part of the corbel sticks out the wall about 150mm and has a similar depth. It may even be forming the...

Kitchen half of my kitchen diner is being refurbished and I want to install underfloor heating. The floor covering will be vinyl. Both floors are currently at the same level and the diner floor has a varnished finish. Problem is the foil heating will add a 13mm step between the floors so to get...

My kids stay in a 2nd floor (of 3) flat which has a combi boiler. However it also has a cold water storage tank which appears to be leaking and I thought about removing it. Is there any reason why this tank would have been retained when the boiler was installed (other than saving time and money)?

This model has an ice maker. The flap which opens to dispense the ice has come loose and it appears you need 10 inch fingers with multiple joints to refit it. Does anyone know how you access this? I'm sure the front control panel must come off but afraid I might knacker it if I try to force it.

During my investigations to find out why my CH wasn't working I isolated the pump by turning off the two valves either side of it. I never actually removed the pump (nuts were so tight I gave up) but unfortunately there is now a small leak from the downstream valve and it looks like it may have...

I think this valve is the reason I have no CH. I have read it is possible to change the motor/actuator but I cannot find any details about this model. The V4043H seems to be the standard Honeywell part. Was the 4013H replaced by the 4043H and can I use a motor from the 4043.

I've just had 6 new internal doors installed which are advertised as oak foil veneer (paper foil technology). They look quite impressive (for the price) but I would like to paint the inside of the bathroom door gloss white. Any things to look out for in the prep or is a light sanding and...

I installed mains halogen lights in a kitchen only to find when testing them that the earth was disconnected. On investigation I found that the two light circuits have been rewired in the original steel conduit, with all wires balled in a mass of confusion in a 4" square JB in the loft (turned...

Did a search of the forum and it appears if the manufacturer allows it then a flxible hose can be used to connect the hob to the gas supply. I've had the gas pipe installed by a CORGI man and he has blanked it off the end (about 40 cm from the hob fitting). I was expecting to fit the flexible...

I want to drop some T&E cables down from the loft to the CU. Drop is about 2m in a defunct pipe stack which runs from ground level (2.5m below the CU) to the loft (only two floors, ground and 1st). Reg 527 goes on about sealing the openings after cables are installed to prevent spread of fire...

Any idea where I can get cable glands for 10 mm T&E. TLC only appear to do them up to 6 mm.

I bought a large deep aluminium box (194x194x 56) to flush mount some modular switches. The box is an MK 898ALM with 6 32 mm knockouts which don't knockout (unless I'm not hitting them hard enough). I presume there is a standard tool for knocking them out but I've no idea what. Any advice ?

I have 6mm T&E in steel conduit going to a cooker unit which is no longer used. Also in the conduit is a 2.5mm T&E, also not used. I intend to use the 6mm for kitchen wiring with a design current of 36A. Kevins cable calculator advises the 6mm is good up 38A but it appears a bit marginal...

I have a cooker circuit in 10mm T&E which is no longer required. Is it safe/lawful to create a ring at the end of this in 2.5 T&E and simply change the MCB in the consumer unit to 30A i.e. use the 10mm T&E as an extension of the CU. Otherwise I'll need to run two new 2.5 T&E cables. Regards...