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Hi Martin, Its a XT18. XT 9800 A CONVERSION KIT ASSEMBLY. Bought from Torre Electrics.

Hello, I have bought a part to repair my storage heater so has thermostatic control again. I want someone to look at my pix to see if it looks like the correct part? Key parts for these heaters appear to be; Thermal Cut-out Charge Controller Bi-metal Damper Limit Accelerator Limit...

When the burner shuts down the circulator pump on combi keeps running endlessly? The diverter valve is noisy, as it seems to give a "clunk" during program changes. I know there is pump over-run on some pumps, but this never stops? Its on a Worchester oil boiler, but I would think it would be...

Its like a little box on the flex outlet, not like the up-to-date heaters. Don't have a picture.

Anybody know where to get the wall thermostats that go with these old heaters?

C&G 236 part 1 & 2. What year did these two get changed to another C&G certificate? A question for the older chaps on here! :wink:

I have a Baxi Burmuda 552 back boiler and need to change the fire front, would this fit? Baxi Living Flame Fire.

I suppose a "woof" It doesn't smell like kerosene in the flue gas outside either. Just seems strange that both oil and spark are absent? Then both together for complete combustion?? Forgot to say oil pump and motor run WITHOUT locking out burner and no flame made ??

Firebird 90k Combi Boiler. Boiler runs some times and well when it does. Plenty of oil, but not at nozzle. (new nozzle fitted) No electrode spark. (brand new mectron control box + solonoid) thanks

Pretty sure its 0.75, 80EH. If the angle is wrong ie. 60EH it would give a different cone shape, thus the flame would touch on the chamber.

Is the oil pressure and air setting correct? You might be firing to much mixture into the combustion chamber?

As it says I need a render that will have a red sandstone look. Does this just mean adding red dye, but how much? What is the right ratio for exterior render?

How do you test a stat. I heard you put the end in boiler water and test electrical continuity with a tester? If you still have continuity then its obviously not breaking no heat rise. Although it might trip on a very low temperature?

The previous plumber saved a bit of cash by only plumbing to the boiler with 22mm, leaving top section still 28mm. I think this is the bad circulation problem. Horstmann valve.

Where you blessed with F&E pipes exactly in the right place, just beside the boiler?? Did you pump into the boiler or out from it? How high was the feed tank from the boiler?

The vent is close coupled near cylinder, for the reason a one hell of a trip down to the boiler pipe route! I am thinking of adding the other 2 port valve instead of pump to increase water flow through DHW side. At the moment most water is just wanting to migrate into the rads past the CH pump!

At the moment the CH side is very stable with no pumping over caused by its pump (remember 4 tapping on boiler). If I add a new pump to the system on the DHW side, making it pumped with 2 port MV. This should still balance and not see-saw as CH pump will be off when new pump runs for DHW. Then...

[/url] Its becoming headache now! :shock: Can you get pumps that are not as powerful to use, reduce chance of water all over the place? When I added the zone valve to the gravity side I did not think it would reduce circulation so much?

I just want to check about the position of a circulator I am adding to a semi-gravity plan. I have already added a 2-channel programmer, 2 port zone valve to get independant control. Boiler has got 4 tappings, so it will have the 2 pumps when done. I was going to put it in the flow pipe...