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  1. S

    How is my ceiling constructed?

    It's a lot harder to take down.
  2. S

    How is my ceiling constructed?

    It was used quite a lot in the USA for ceilings before plasterboard. The galvanizing can break down over time leaving the laths open to rust and failure. It's a lot quicker to skim plasterboard than fill EML or timber laths.
  3. S

    Has anybody got any experience with limecrete

    A lime specialist will have the roller pan mixers needed. No good turning up with a Belle.
  4. S

    Has anybody got any experience with limecrete

    My advice is to use a builder experienced with using NHL 5 for a floor. Worse than concrete if you tamp it into your eyes.
  5. S

    How is my ceiling constructed?

    That's the normal method.
  6. S

    Mortar plasticiser - out of date

    Try drinking out of date Febmix.
  7. S

    Widen Fireplace - Support Flue (4 Inch Block)

    What's the diameter of the existing flue?
  8. S

    Widen Fireplace - Support Flue (4 Inch Block)

    I'm a brickie, but I've never seen that method used before. The precast gathers are in one piece, or when brickwork is used, the bricks are cut and corbelled. Looks like there were gaps for smoke to enter besides the flue.
  9. S

    Widening chimney breast

    You don't normally have any brickwork under the throat lintel. The idea is that it guides any smoke up the flue. Bricks tend to let some escape. You don't need the brickwork below the lintel.
  10. S

    Widening chimney breast

    Have you picked a new fire and got the dimensions? You can move the steel up if you need to.
  11. S

    Widening chimney breast

    It's probably a concrete throat lintel.
  12. S

    Widening chimney breast

    Technically it's wrong, so luckily you aren't going through Building Control as it's an electric fire. The minimum width for a jamb is 200mm, so you will be down to less than that as it doesn't include the plaster. In reality, when you think that some people knock out a lower chimney breast and...
  13. S

    Widening chimney breast

    Worth knowing that if you cut out 810mm you will probably be going into the structural jambs on each side of the chimney breast. These were often 9 inch brickwork, so you would be cutting out a few inches each side.
  14. S

    Wall building advice needed

    A wall starter will help prevent any lateral movement.
  15. S

    Wall building advice needed

    If you use English garden wall bond you don't need ties. The main reason for using Stretcher bond is that you get a good face both sides. As the length of stretchers can vary a bit, the back of the wall can look a bit rough. You can use an American bond, which is more like a header course every...
  16. S

    Wall building advice needed

    The original foundation might be OK, but the Victorians didn't usually have very deep foundations. As the walls were built in lime mortar, this allowed for a certain amount of movement without any damage. However, the wall has had years the settle, so it could be OK. Generally if I'm rebuilding...
  17. S

    Wall building advice needed

    For a wall of that height you need to know the foundation is sound. Worth also looking online at the correct thickness for a garden wall in your area. The number of courses per day depends on the type of brick.
  18. S

    Reclaimed bricks

    A garden retaining will stay damp for longer periods than the house walls.
  19. S

    Painted Brickwork - Dealbreaker?

    Cavity wall insulation does prevent the heat from inside drying out the external skin as well, so it's been found over the years to sometimes increase the spalling of the brickwork. Although paint can protect the brickwork, in time water can find it's way through minor cracks, but can't escape...
  20. S

    Painted Brickwork - Dealbreaker?

    Not such a damp problem with a cavity wall. You just need to be prepared for a bit of extra maintenance.
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