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Makes sense, I’m still intrigued what it would have been for. It’s right in the corner of the garden, as far away from the house as it could be.

Hi, removed an old shed and clearing the old base I unearthed this pipe. Looks like a drain valve but no idea what for or if it’s still in use. Anyone have any idea what it could be? cheers

Went with the Baxi Eco Blue Heat Only. Fitted in with room to spare (well, a little bit of room) :D

nice one, mine is a under counter install but it looks like an EcoBlue would do the trick (y)

Update: I heard back from Glow-worm and the Energy only requires 25mm above the case when installed with the rear flue (y)

The Mynute 15 VHE requires 150mm above and below the 600 unit. Space under worktop is 870mm so that won't fit. Anyone know about the new Glow Worm Energy? Or if Flexicom's are still available anywhere??

Yeah, it is a rather awkward location. Some people nearby have put them on the other wall (at the end of the sink) but it looks pretty horrible (visible from kitchen window)

I looked at Worcester and a load of others but for most of them the manuals don't make it clear what the top clearance is when using the rear flue. One that did specify it was The Baxi Eco Blue Advance Heat and it should fit with room to spare

Looks like my boiler has had it. Looking to get it replaced with something that can be sited in the same place. (On external wall under kitchen counter with rear flue) Does anyone know of a Heat Only boiler that fits the bill?

could well be time to replace. Anyway, will get the engineer back this week and see how it goes.

Hi folks, I have a Baxi WM 40/4 PF boiler that has served me well for many years (I think it was installed in 1989) Anyway, it has recently developed a fault where a small amount of water is collecting in one of the APS nozzles. As highlighted in the attached image, it is the nozzle...

Update, installed the new programmer last night and everything is working as it should. Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.

Progress, I moved the wire in 4 to L, and yes, when I turned back on the power, and turned up the room stat, valve moved to CH only and the boiler kicked in. Turning down the room stat switched off the boiler. Does this prove it's the programmer? (I guess the re-wiring by-passed the prog?)...

Echo, I'll try switching that wire and let you know what happens. Robo, programmer was replaced a few years back, the old one wasn't faulty, I replaced it for more timer options. As far as I know it's always been a pumped system. I'll check the programmer wiring tomorrow.

Thanks again echo, It's a Drayton lp 722. I'll check the room thermostat tomorrow and report back.

Test Results: Multi-meter readings in [], odd readings in [BOLD], additional notes in (italics) TEST 1 Heating on at programmer, room stat turned up, hot water off at programmer: Grey wire 240V [240V] White wire 240V [0V] Orange wire 240V [0V] Valve right over to heating only [@HW]...

Thanks Echo, yes, if the HW is on and the CH is then turned on, the valve moves to the mid-position. Turn the HW off and the valve moves to the CH only position. If the CH is then turned off, the valve remains in the CH position (should it return to HW only?) I should have said, the system was...

Hi folks, I have the above problem with my boiler and after reading through a lot of threads on here it sounded like the issue could be a faulty mid position valve actuator. So I bought a new one, fitted it, but the original problem persists. To give a bit more detail, if the HW is set to off...

whoops, meter was displaying 0.1 ohms not ohms so the reading was actually 0.03 ohms

that reading was taken approximately an inch either side of the connection block. I got an identical reading across the wire before the block too. Perhaps I should change the battery in my meter or get a new one.