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If you say so but my experience tells me that the rapidset will set in the bucket in about 30 minutes the standard setting stuff stays soft for hours.

An hammer and a small tungsten tipped chisel I wouldn't even think about taking a mini grinder into your kitcen :shock: If you haven't got a decent chisel a tile scriber works as well.

I have used nail varnish to good effect in the past(if you can match the colour) In the days before pvc edge trims the firm I worked for used to buy cheap Turkish 6" white tiles by the pallett load these didn't have glazed edges so we used to open a few boxes and spray the edges with car paint...

Can't see a problem with it,you need to lay some of the tiles out to see if its workable.A tight joint is fine providing the size of the tiles is consistant lots of natural stones will vary in size to much to make a 2mm joint practical.

Don't think the heat will affect them(they're made in an oven)but frost could as they do absorb water.Best to seal them.

Marble is quite a soft stone your old diamond blade will be fine if its got anything left on it at all.

I'd use the rapidset flexible,no need for pourable or thick bed on a plywood sheet.The fast flex is a higher spec adhesive but much more expensive and not as nice to use so if your ply is rigid go for the an spf. Make sure you get white with travertine. If your likely to be working slowly the...

The Bal WP1 should be fine with porcelain tiles it supports upto 32kg per sqm (more than is recommended onto your skimmed wall). An 8kg tub should do around 8sqm

http://www.schluter.co.uk/2812.aspx See the above link for the magnetic catches

If you use 20mm wedi board rather than ply for the bath panel you'll find its pretty much self supporting so you'll need very little framing and it wont warp like ply. As you tile it leave out the tile where you want your access panel,stanley knife the board out to suit and fix the tile over...

Have used both over the years but tend to use square notch mainly.I think the rounded notches are supposed to give more complete coverage with larger format tiles but a lot of it is personal preference.

Right so its more hassle trying to set out without the units, there's extra cost of materials(more tiles) there's extra cost supplying and fitting protection there's delay for the fitters waiting for adhesive/grout drying times, and presumably the tiler's got to make a return visit to tile...

No my job is to lay tiles on the surface I'm given I make it look flat but its not necessarily level.Put a level line round your kitchen and check how far out the floor (and ceiling for that matter)is.

Also if you fit the units first you get to do the tile setting out with everything in place so you don't end up with things looking off centre once the units go in.

Not sure about common practice I've been tiling for 25 years on building sites and domestic and I'd say at least 95% of the time the units are fitted before tiling.Don't get me wrong takes out some of the awkward cuts if you tile the whole floor and providing I'm not buying the tiles I'm happy...

Dunlop ,Bal and Ardex all the same company.You should have no problems with the Dunlop.

Bal fast flex can be used directly onto a chipboard base and providing you follow the recommended fixing procedures bal guarantee it (for 25 years I think). Obviously the boards need to be well fixed rigid fit for purpose etc.If you have the room for overlaying then it can only help stiffen the...

Not tiling onto bonding is because the tile adhesive doesn't stick so well its in the british standard that tiling must be onto a finish coat and the tile adhesive manufacturers wont guarantee their adhesives onto bonding.You can tile straight onto plasterboard though without skimming. And yes...

You dont if you use wedi or marmox or something similar they cut easy with a stanley knife even the hardibacker or no more ply will cut with a knife or saw if its just a one off job no need for the special tool.

Fit the units first then tile upto the legs,fit the plinths last.If you really want to avoid cutting the plinths you could stand the base units in place,tile the floor then wind the legs up to suit the plinth before screwing the base units back but seems a lot of hassle just to avoid cutting...