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Are you kidding? The batts advertised for timber frame are nearly 5 times more per m2 than the loftroll! For my garden room that works at £450 difference (& my labour is effectively free) Adam

That's a great idea about using some gaffer tape. I'll give that a try :) Adam

Hello, I'd like to use loftroll insulation vertically in a timber frame wall. I know it's not designed to keep it's shape in that orientation so am wondering about the best way to secure it. I'm thinking just stapling the top & maybe at the edges a bit (I can't do anything at the back and front...

But isn't there some more affordable option?! :( Adam

Huh, what distance between purlins for that? For the metal sheets I'd have the purlins at 1m centres, so anything closer than that & that adds cost again. (Even 11mm OSB is £36 at my local merchant - so still comes to near £300 & more than the steel even without the actual felt.)

Ha ha, oh yes, doh. I've corrected it.

Hi All, I want to put a cheapish roof covering on a field shelter. I've done a bit of googling and the various websites I've looked at all say different versions of "felt is the cheapest ... but it's not as durable as metal". I can't make any sense of this. The field shelter is about 4m x 4m...

Something possibly in my favour is that the decay seems to be in relatively new timber - so perhaps I'd get away with replacing that I'm intending to try and get a builder (ideally experienced in "heritage" properties!) to look round with me, but because it's an auction property the timing is...

Well, the guide price for the house is quite very low, so hopefully if we have to spend a fortune on the roof we'll get the money back in increased value. I don't know what "very deep" means though - are we looking at £20k or £200k? It's a large, 3-bed C18 stone house in Cornwall. I'm still...

Any thoughts? I guess one potential source of moisture would be condensation resulting from the heavy sarking restricting ventilation & blanket insulation on the floor making the void cold - but wouldn't the decay work down from where the timbers touch the sarking in that case?

Sorry, I was using "rot" to refer to any decay - I'll edit to make clearer.

Hi All, I went to see a property the other day which we're considering buying at auction. It's a couple of hundred years old & grade 2* listed. My main concern is the roof. There seems to be a mix of very old & newer timber. Lots of the rafters have the same problem: the lower third of the...

Yes, but the cladding goes all round the room, behind the sink & toilet & is used to make a built-in storage unit so it would basically be an entire bathroom refit :( Looks like I might be running out of options... though I'll try a local mill (I've used Timbersource in Somerset before). Adam

Thanks, looks like my purple option - I guess I might just have to accept it's not identical - but how did they make the original? [edit, after more googling] Ah, OK, I can't find a diagram of that bit but maybe it's "sideways" bits I need, thanks. (I'll do some more digging, but am now...

I've never used a router so am struggling to picture how that would work. I can see how to make the curved (purple) and the straight (green) profiles separately, but how would it be possible to put them together to make the overall shape? (The lower section of the pic is my sketch of the...

Anyone got any ideas? What tools would be used to machine a groove like that from scratch?

Neither. They won't help with what you've got. Either rely on the slightly rickety arrangement you've built, or do as Munroist says. Adam

Yes, that type of thing. But I can't see any information on those pages about the width of the sections & every example I have found is bigger - about 90mm seems standard and that's what those look like, as far as I can tell from the photos :( Adam

Hi All, I need to match some existing decorative cladding but I've been searching for weeks and can't find anything similar. Pine or MDF, profiled or jointed, would all be fine. Anyone have any ideas where I could get it or how I could make it? The grooves are shaped like: ___/u\___. See pic...

The leaflet it came with says it "can be finished with Danish oil, waxes, varnishes or hardwax finishes such as those supplied by Osmo or Treatex"