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Generally you should use the same blocks that were used in the origional construction if you can. This ensures that the strength of the new work matches the existing. Blocks can be put into 2 general types ( this can be split further). 7 newton- Used in foundations, garage floors (block...

What I meant by my last post, is that you need good loadbearing ground. This may be 100mm deep or it could be more. The hardcore that you put down will only perform well if the ground below it is good. The main purpose of hardcore is to make up the difference between the ground below and the...

Where you patch up the floor, yes this does need dpm under it to prevent damp. Hope this is what you meant.

The salty patch will be efflorescence. These are soluble salts that are contained within the materials. Once they get wet, the salts are dissolved in the moisture, as the moisture evaporates, the salts are drawn to the face and left behind. This is a sign that you have got damp in that area...

Tarred gaskin is like a loose rope material which is soaked in a bitumen/ tar to make it more water resistant. It was positioned in the joint and then a mortar fillet applied to finish it off. I'm not sure if you can still buy it, although I would have thought that you can buy something that...

The problem with painting it, is that this will create a barrier between the blockwork and the render. As for the floor, you could use a levelling compound. Alternatively you could screed the floor, I would go no less than 25mm, although this is a bit thin. 50 mm would do the job fine...

Both of these threads on wall ties are very difficult to get your head around. It is very difficult to diagnose on a description only. Photo's would help. Anyway, here are my thoughts: Bulging of gable ends could be due to insufficient ties to to roof structure, allowing the wall to lean...

1) If your house is a listed building, you would probably need permission for all of this work. If not: 2)If you are knocking out a loadbearing wall, then you will need building reg's & also calc's from a structural engineer to show that your work meets the regs. 3) I don't think that...

This work is covered by building reg's, so you will need to apply for that. The calc's that you need should be done by a structural engineer and submitted to the local authority for approval, these will include type of beam & size, support required (piers) and foundation requirements. Hope...

Hopefully, should be ok. The only problem could be the depth of the lintel. See what he says. The main job of a pad stone is to take the point loads of large beams/lintels etc. Without the padstone they could fracture/ crush the blockwork. Good luck m8

:lol: :lol: :lol:

It sounds like a poor finish you have there. With 1cm bumps, you will probably find that you will need to use a levelling compound first.

I would leave the viynl tiles, they will not act as an insulator, but removing them is hassle that will not affect the new floor (unless it makes the laminate too high). As for insulation, there are a number of different underlay materials for laminate floors.

Well I did'nt think that saying hello was building or car related etc, so I thought general chat was the place. Maybe I should have posted it in decorating.lol. :roll:

Hi newbee here. There doesnt appear to be anywhere on here for new peeps to introduce themselves. So I thought in here was the next best place. :D

Sorry, the penny has just dropped. I obviously didnt read youre first post properly. Mmmmmmmm.......Mmmmmmm This is a difficult one :? I cant think of anything at the mo, in fact there's no way around it. Sorry :roll:

If it is a timber stud wall, you may still get some movement.

Always start in the centre of the wall and work out this will ensure even cuts at each side and this centre line can then be continued along the floor and up the other wall :roll: . Confused you yet? If so re-post and i will try again. As for the top edge, do what you want, however a plastic...

How a driveway performs is down to preparation. The depth is an important factor, but if you went down a metre and the ground was poor, then you could still have problems. What you need is good loadbearing ground and one that is stable and won't move with wetting and drying (weather). As the...

You can use concrete pre-stressed lintels, which are available in many sizes (including 100mm). All you then need to do is to cut it to your required length. 8) A possible alternative is to use engineering bricks laid where required. If your work is under building regs, consult your inspector...