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400mm centres will be fine for 6mm use dwangs also,...and stagger your backer boards an it will be fine ie brick bond ur boards

That was fun reading the replies there.....takes me back a good bit on this forum...

Take it all off....the cracked tiles on window cill could be thermal expansion.. Do not tile over...

Ok....the floor..... First thing is the thickness off your former from min off 18mm up ok so if it's 22mm like that tuff one from akw(that's the one I mainly use)... Then your flooring ie....wbp ply will be the same thickness 22mm The former should sit ontop off joists supported...

Sorry daughter took iPad for homework....lol As it's not a big area have you thought about a safety flooring.....Altro flooring....they have a brilliant range... I do a lot of wet rooms about 50%,I put done altro flooring really nice gear mate...cost wise it might be a little dearer than...

Waterproof matting... Durabase c1++...... Homelux.....shulter ditra/kerdi drain systems ...ect.. Formers....there are loads out there....tuff ect... Are you wanting a traditional or linear former.. Again not wanting to sound to hard on you.... The floor substrate has to be in good...

Pop onto you tube...type in.. Cutting 3way mitre with tile trim... Look for tictic70 and you will get step by step guide... Ps it's in a broad glasgow accent so you may need to look an listen more than once... :lol:

You mean the grout....just re-grout..

1st...is this room upstairs or downstairs... Then look into joists thickness/span/spacing... You will want to use a tray former to suit the size off the area...the former is fitted to the floor level... Then tank floor an walls... Then tiles fixed.... But you need to get floor an...

Take it's a solid wall your fixing to an not a stud.... Drywall adhesive then plug an screw thro the dabs when set... Dot an dab every 300mm across and 250mm down... Make sure the wall is dust free first...

Yip just talk to the tiler.... Where they will be placed.... The size of them....so he will know what size of hole to drill.... Also Dependant on type of tile, so he will need the correct drill bit... I.e...porky/granite/ceramic ect...

How thick are your tiles.... You could channel the wall slightly at the other end of tray and it will be more flush...

Shouldn't be a problem.... Just follow mf instructions.... Ie...stagger the boards ect...

What's the wall construction...plasterboard on stud or dot and dabbed p/ board.....render...bonding coat/ skim finish....?? How big an area is it you are talking about..

You will need a cement based adhesive..I.e...flexiable bagged addy.. Weber/ardex/mapei/bal/granfix ect.... You will get a max 4-5m2 out a bag with halfmoon serator... You will need to prep and prime the wall tiles first.... Then you will need to consider...will the existing wall take...

Or hope someone has not just put a dpm sheet down and tiled onto this!!! Again if you can posts pics,that would help.

The thin black layer sounds more like asphalt/bitumin...can you post up pictures?

From what you describe... You have a single skin wall between bathroom and kitchen..I.e.. Paramount cardboard p/board... If you have...then if you rip it down you will be exposing all your electrical points behind your kitchen wall sockets.... If you don't have any existing tiles on the...

Firsts thing first...... What's the chipboard attached to....construction off the actual floor substrate Is it timber joists...if so what's the joists widths/depths spacing ect.. Is it a block and beam floor.... Floating floor.... Before you consider tiling it...!!!

as tpt needed a two coat primer..across the floor then up the floor 100% coverage this way... and then a ditra or dura+ matting imo and then follow mfr inst regarding warm up time..what grout spacing did you use...looking at pics...looks min..