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Must be hard work having two accounts...... None of you have a clue what your talkin about. The paving will only become flexible if the subbase or ground below moves or gives. Which unless your on clay or bad ground wont happen. When the sands compacted it reaches its maximum density...

cos i know im right.

Id say the wobbles are from the fact the floor joists are attached to the steel with joist hangers, the roor is then strutted from the same steel and when the wind blows its just wobbling the whole lot. joist hangers wobble at the best of times, and im not impressed with the way the floor...

is insulated render an option for you??? it is the best solution to all your problems.

lol, block paving dont move up and down. if it goes down it stays down,it ceertainly dont come back up in any way. you clearly dont understand the qualities of compressed sand.

how can it be flexible when its fitted tightly to house and border with all perimeters securly backcked up with concrete. its an enclosed structure it cannot expand or be flexible n any way, surely you dont mean its flexible with regards to the base..... how can you say block paving is layed...

oh by the way, block paving is not supposed to be a flexible surface. It should be layed to remain as a solid fixed state to be fit for purpose! As with all paving, thats why it does not recieve any expansion system.

lol, yeahh your right in sayin its an easy failure but then thats the same with anythin. like i dont lay bricks if its gonna rain. so without you thinkin im diggin again, which i aint. what finish do you leave on the pointed slabs if you use wet mix, weatherstuck, smooth? i just dont...

hands up,I still wet the bed now an then. Have to have a placci sheet on top of matress, stop me from soilin it. hehe!

bout 25-30k id say. depending on specifics

good to hear everyones opinion on this one, and its good that we all do it our own way. i can understand your point regarding the dry pointing, which as i did say if done properly is the best way. There are obviously many people that dont do it the right way so thats obviously where your comin...

youve just answeredyour own question, go for it mate thats the way i do it and the building inspector loves it!!

ok thermo, no hard feelings m8.

yh keim, or kay render its all pretty much the same stuff, easier to face up, and a nice finish on it as well. not the cheapest of options though, lol.

well thats a lot of probably this and probably that, but then i suppose an assumption is good enough. Yeah mate go ahead rip it out and stick the lintel in to suit your door frame, youll probably be alright, and it will all probably stay up there if you want to have a cup o tea when youve...

Here you go drnail have one o mine!

differing slab thicknesses are irrelevent to laying on a dry mix, if the slabs are of the same profile then great screed it, if not no big deal. At least that way there solid based and not the old hollow boys, that are only good for one season. I suppose theyll be alright spotted straight on...

crazy foam!!!!!!!! Should you really be encouraging diy enthusiasts to undertake structual changes to their property. The only advice i will give you is be carefull, installing lintels is a job for a professional.

Lol, well its a good job im recognized by brett paving as a recommended builder, thats why im in their leaflet and thats why i wont be needing to lay any slabs for you!! As i like to do the job properly!! Danmun the reason he didnt wet point them up is because it would have looked hideous...

For any over rendering i always use flexible render, itll adhere to almost any surface and never cracks.