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That's pretty much what my Berlingo is supposed to be. One anomaly I've found is that the service interval counter is calibrated in Km not miles. So you reset it to 10k after a service only to find the spanner pops up 6400 miles later. The other one is that mine seems to be permanently set to...

The other odd thing is that the dead nurse only passed on the call. She wasn't the one who discussed the medical details. At least that's the impression I get.

I had a similar problem on a Lada (yes I know) several years ago. Most of the time it would start ok then sometimes it would refuse to start. Banging the starter solenoid cured it but it wasn't the solenoid. It turned out to be a fracture in the cable that runs from the battery +ve to the...

I think most people would be glad it doesn't come on :D But seriously it's probably either a faulty bulb or a loose connection on the instrument panel. How you change it or get to it though, I have no idea.

5mm? They've only had about 2mm of wear by then! Most places recommend 2 or 3mm. It's up to you really, how skint are you, do you drive a lot in the wet and so on. I change sooner rather than later with about 2or 3 mm but then I do about 20k a year just commuting.

I hate to disagree but for motorbikes something like this is often essential, especially if you lay your bike up over the winter. If you ride over the winter then it's no problem but tiddly little bike batteries tend to suffer if left for a month or more. How good that one is however, no...

My boss has a similar problem on his Corsa. Sometimes he can be sitting at the lights with the speedo doing 120mph. I think his ABS light comes on too. The fault codes indicated a duff brake light switch. THis has been changed and unsurprisingly hasn't cured the fault. The car is driveable but...

The flashing engine management light can't flash P [1] so I don't know whether the older codes would have P0 at the front. [1] I expect the could flash the ASCII code but that might be confusing

I'll check that this weekend (along with everything else I have to do <sigh>). I must admit that everytime I google for code 143 I see a different result. That's the only link I've seen that says throttle body sensor although I'm not discounting it. Time for a good search around the engine bay...

Thanks for that useful bit of info. A further dig aroundon the interwibble produces two possibilities. Either an immobiliser fault (which is the standard cause of 143) or possibly a problem with the fuel injection fuse. As that secind solution fitted the symptoms I've just pulled out the fuse...

I managed to get a fault code out of it. It's the lower two pins on the left for future info. Bu the code I got, 143, doesn't seem to be listed on the websites I went to. Thanks John I'll look at that website. We bought the car for £450 about 2or so years ago so wether it's worth doing more...

Hi all My wife's P reg 1.0 Micra went wrong today. It cut out and then started running like a "Sherman Tank" to quote herself. I went and started it this evening and it works fine. I was wondering whether it was the school run that did it, about 10 minutes each way. It has a code plug but...

That wasn't part of the requirement though. Just that you can get a bike in the boot.

Anything except a Vauxhall or a Renault (from experience).

I can't remember which side kicks in first as I sold my 406 about 3 years ago. However if one fails it can affect the operation of the other fan, bizarrely. I found that spinning the duff fan by hand often kicked the other fan into operation (don't ask me - why I don't know). It can be quite...

Mr Clutch do a similar style of warranty. As you say though, I'd be inclined first to ask the clutch place what they think is the problem. I'd also have the gearbox oil level checked as I have had sticky gears with a low level and/or the wrong sort of oil.

Check the connections in the fuse box and use a bit of switch/contact cleaner to clean them. Your reasons for doubting the relay don't eliminate the relay at all I'm afraid. If it's one that plugs into the fuse box as many do, then you can pick one up from a scrap yard for pence and just swap it...

I checked with a colleague who worked on rehab equipment and wheelchairs. He says there are both 12v and 24v versions. I must admit I wouldn't normally wire lead acid cells in parallel which is why I raised the point, but you could use isolation diodes.

Just one thing to consider,Aidee said it had 2 X 12V 34Ah batteries. It's likely these are connected in series giving 24V rather than in parallel. So the charging socket in the wall will be putting out about 27 or 28V rather than about 13 or 14V.

It was a hypothetical question as far as I can tell. Whether or not it could happen is immaterial. I don't see any need to start insulting each other over it.