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Will do, thank you very much - Johnstone's look considerably cheaper than Little Green from a quick search - I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the extra now! Sampler time I guess! If it was only a small area it wouldn't be too much bother, But I think I need about 12.5l.

Thanks for the reply - some useful info :) It's a shade of off white we will be going for (undecided as of yet, the Dulux I need to cover up is too 'cold' though) - I don't know how much of a bearing this has on the pigmentation method? I've read a few things suggesting F&B and the like really...

Morning all :) I'm after a wall paint with a good coverage, that will give me a very flat, chalky finish. As well as this, it needs to be able to go over Dulux 'Matt' :roll: Long story short, we have an min 19th century cottage, in which all of the walls have just been insulated and...

It's colid concrete, of unknown age, no visible DPM. The carpet that was previously down had signs of damp at the edges, yep, however we are not sure of the source of that. The walls have had all of the plaster removed and are now clad in 90mm thick insulated board in an effort to eliminate...

Afternoon all :) We're currently in the midst of what has accidentally become a renovation on a mid 19th century cottage. (9" solid brick walls) In our lounge we have a solid floor of unknown age, with a more than slightly uneven surface, that the builders have 'Black-Jack'ed over as a...

Cheers muchly for the input. I think I may be opening a huge can of worms here, but I know there's the huge debate between returning a house to 'as is' to let it 'breathe', and installing modern materials. Depending on who I talk to, some people are tilling me to go solid, and some stick...

The void is currently filled with rubble, and looks to be ranging maybe from about 6/7ft deep, to about a foot at it's shallowest. I'd thought about a solid floor, however the problem is that nowhere else in the house has any form of damp proofing due to it's age. My concern is that a solid...

Afternoon all you knowledgable folk :) We have an issue with damp in our house, and as part of it are having to replace a rotten suspended floor. The house is a late 19th century cottage, brick built, double skinned (non cavity), and doesn't appear to have a damp proof course of any sort...

Thanks :) The current damp problem has been diagnosed from non destructive testing by an independant damp speicalist (not a 'free quotation' type place) as being most likely to be caused by damp course bridging. However, we're not 100% sure yet as we haven't hacked off the plaster at a low...

Afternoon all. We have a mid 19th century cottage with a floor that needs replacing due to damp and woodworm. It's currently a suspended wood floor with just a single airbrick. Due to the layout of the house, it's unfortuantely no viable to fit another airbrick. As a result, we need to make...

Now I'm confused! If it helps, I think the the skim of plaster that was over the top was from about 1990, so the textured finish could realistically be any time before this. Does that tie in with the texture paint theory? And would the paint tie int o be a slightly 'rubbery' coat? Apologies...

Cheers for the speedy reply :) The thing that puzzles me is that I thought Artex would be thicker? Unfortunately the plaster behind it is cracked and blown in places, and I can't afford to lose space by boarding over the top. So my plan is to strip it back and board straight ontot he wall...

Afternoon all :) My wife and I have recently moved into a mid 19th century property, and are doing our best to look after it! What we thought would be a relatively simple task (stripping the landing and stairs, and repainting) has got a bit more tricky when I discovered that the plaster was a...