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Mmmm, I agree. You shouldn't have even attempted to open the combustion case. It maybe a water carrying part but you're not qualified to crack the combustion covers seal. First point of call when it comes to a boiler is find the yellow pages or get onto google and find a company or engineer...

Remove the radiator, take a bucket or large pot and hold it under/in front of each rad valve and open it up again slowly, see if you get a good pressure and constant flow out of it. I'd suspect there's a restriction in the pipe. A flush machine could loosen it but at the same time BG does note...

Most of the time the PCB in the Powerhead has given up. Ifyourgetting the correct demands and satisfies in to the head, change it :)

No idea, it's just the tail, mixed up when put in the box most likely.

Factory fitted sealant. It is indeed to remove the need for tape. I don't trust the stuff myself.

Only other way hot could come into the cold would be a passing blending valve like on a shower.

A full strip down and clean is the only way to sort out a 3 way on these boilers, sometimes find they become jammed in place, no amount of cleaning solution will sort that little problem, it requires a good scrub or a new innards and new O-rings. The kit is cheap :wink: A filter will help...

It can be boxed in without vents, but I wouldn't fit a complete top and bottom. Leave a good air gap around the case, also the build the cupboard so it's fully removable, these boilers need good access at the bottom

The old stat will have a live, neutral and a call wire. Your new programmer doesn't need a permanent live. It's battery powered so it's happy days. The boilers old clock needs to be either bridged out or set to constant. Most battery powered stats only have two terminals, live in and call...

It's a thermal cut out, it cuts the power to the zone valve if it trips.

Any dual channel programmer will replace it. The box underneath it a wiring centre for your Central Heating :) Your programmer is going to be pushing 30 years old, so it can't hurt to change it :) Depending on the design of the system it can be setup to run water and heating independent...

The fans very a simple motor. There's not much to blow there. They burn out if they seize, all this power flowing through the coil attempting to turn the shaft, it'll cook itself. Could be the wiring harness, could be a issue with the PCB that drives the fan, could be a issue with the supply...

You system isn't wired incorrectly, it's Hot Water Priority. It's an outdated system. Can be upgraded easily :)

Before worrying about the air, get BG back to move the filter. The filters the highest point on the system to is naturally going to collect air there.

You need to find out what the static head is. The height the loft tank is mounted at determins your Hot water pressure. You could also have a cylinder full of scale, you might find its blocking the cold inlet to your cylinder :)

Off topic, your central heating pump is fitted incorrectly. It needs the head turning so the wires on the bottom :)

Fit it on the main return. If you don't then it'll not be as effective.

The Laars Mascot II looks similar, internally, to some of the boilers here in the UK, the heat exchanger and manifolds look familiar, but I can't put my finger on the appliance. It'll come to me when I'm in bed :lol: Anyhow, you'll be hard pushed to find a combination appliance that can run...

Put the zone valves on the flow as well as the open vent and cold feed. The vent and feed should be before the pump. The cylinder zone valve shouldn't be allowed to close of the vent, put the valve on the cylinder flow pipe. :)

The iron downpipe goes into your main drain, your guttering generally doesn't flow into the same pipe. Some cases it does, but since the standards have changed you can't fit new pipework in other same way.