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I think this will be how it goes. I’m happy to mix up some mortar, just don’t want to destroy the wall footings.

Unfortunately, only two still remain. The other three have broken off at wall level.

The bricks do see to be on some solid footings. The footings are very neat on one side, being the same width as the brick work. But on the other side, they extend out a bit further than the brick coarse, which means potentially damaging the footings in order to dig in any spurs or alternative...

Not sure that could work here. Not least because there is the wall section in situ, but also because it would mean the end posts would now be further away from the boundary ends, leaving an odd gap to fill (especially if planning to slot standard size fence panels in the concrete post grooves).

I did consider this but figured I’d still have some issues with digging in the spurs, with the wall footings causing a bit of obstruction. Not sure why the original posts decomposed so badly. I’ve no way of knowing how old they are, I moved here 8yrs ago and they were already like this. I don’t...

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I need to reinstate my rear garden fence. The original appears to have been done with concrete posts, six feet apart, and then a couple of courses of bricks between them, acting like a gravel board. It was probably a nice job back in the day but the concrete posts have blown and mostly...

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I’ve got a 1930s external garden wall which is very badly neglected. As it’s never gonna look pretty It seems like a perfect way to learn how to repoint a wall. One thing I’m concerned about though, in all the videos I’ve seen, people rake out about 20mm of the existing mortar, which usually...

Just this dimension here in blue. Being shorter in this dimension means that it’s not easy to grab an off-the-shelf replacement from another manufacturer (e.g my B&Q P-trap). Always assumed these things were kinda standardised!

Perfect. I understand. This is great thanks. I’ll order the Mcalpine replacement. One thing I don’t understand. Why is a height adjustable P-Trap narrower / shorter in width than a standard P-trap?

Yes, this looks spot on. Many thanks. The waste trap in the sink is defo 40mm. I don’t quite follow where I’m cutting though (if need be)?

Cheers, that makes sense. I’ve left it for now but will see if I can make that work when I get back to it. One problem I think I’m might have is that I couldn’t unscrew the highest nut / compression fitting on the old trap, it felt glued. But I might just need to try more force..

I just couldn’t get the B&Q one to line up, even with rotation. The width of the new one is just too much larger.

Hi all. So my dear old Mum told me she’s always had a leak under her kitchen sink, while I was there to replace the taps. I could see it was damp but cracked on with the taps, dreading that it might be a leak from the compression fittings that I was securing my new tap tails to. Well, long...

Well, I did this, and sure enough, over around 7 hours later, the pressure had lost half a bar. Knowing it wasn't the Heating System (so have returned valves to original position) and knowing it wasn't the PRV (bone dry), I decided to put a container under the Condensate outlet. Then I...

Brill, thanks a lot. Just to clarify, once isolated, is it important at all to ensure that the Thermostat doesn't try to kick in the heating? Or will it simply just fail to do so without any damage to the boiler?

Thanks. Do you mean this section? //www.diynot.com/wiki/plumbing:faq Couldn't find anything directly relating to my query... am I being dumb?

How do you isolate the heating system from the boiler in order to rule that out?

Was this fixed? What was it? My Baxi 105HE, is needing an almost daily top up and my condensate pipe (NOT PRV) seems to be dripping more than it probably should. I sure with a daily top-up that I would have noticed by now if I had a leak under the floorboards. The boiler will lose pressure...