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Well a few days on and all seems good so far so thanks to all :D I also had a concise email back from Glow Worm also explaining the same thing with a part number for the capacitor and boiler fitment. I looked the part up and it was about £75 odd!

Well I fitted it and with the valve open heating turned off/satisfied voltage fluctuates between to 11v-19v and stays there between the Orange & Blue neutral. Initially I thought I wired it wrong as I turned it back on again, called the HW and nothing happened, eek! Then realised it was...

Ok a quick multimeter test Power cut and it back on as a reset... From blue wires in top 2nd from left to orange in top 3rd from right With nothing running I get 3v across the two With HW running I get 247v-248v across the two With CH on it goes from 3v to 139v I hear the motor...

With the port open though if there's a call for the HW won't that then pump hot water round the heating as well or is this what I see when I make an on or boost to the HW the valve closing like it should do?

Ok having been out to he shops there's a Maplins 5 minutes down the road so I popped in and bought that linked capacitor whilst out, it has "LCR, MKP/SW/WF, 100nF 5% 500 VAC 13-24" written on it before I find out the Maplin guy gave me the wrong one and blow something up :) It's quite big and...

Yeah sorry capacitor was mentioned previously so I just had that in my head when replying. Here's a photo of the wiring centre although it's been rotated 90° anti clockwise by diynot upload. As looking at the 'wonky' photo Left goes to the hive controller Top left the pump Top right...

With the wiring centre cover off there's only 1 orange wire and that comes from the 3 port valve but there's a lot of blue wires, is it the same blue one from the 3 port valve? If so can you literally screw the ends of the capacitor into the wiring centre terminals?

Do you know what capacitor I need i.e. spec of it?

Yeah there's no heating in it, just trying to take the edge off it. I think part of the problem was the old letterbox letting the wind in and the top of the walls look to be drafty in the corner, probably once I seal this up it'll probably help anyway. I know when I take the wood chip wall...

We have a porch which has a double glazed door and full height window to the front, single layer wall either side and single pane door and full height glass in sections entry to the house and a flat roof. Redecorating it which currently consisted of wood chip wallpaper, 18 layers of paint...

Sounds similar but not quite the same perhaps. The 3 port valve closes when I initially call for HW not when it's satisfied, still think it's the same issue? Also I thought the boiler needed a 240v to kick in or can this stray voltage be enough to start it?

No it's a Glow Worm Micro 60FF.

I've had a British Gas engineer back round and he spent about 4 hours fannying around with it to come to the conclusion it's probably the CH 3 port valve, although... At one point he swopped out the Honeywell motor for a new one and it still played up, then after lot's of mucking about 'dry...

I had Hive installed about June and all seemed good. Now in recent times (as we use the CH) I've noticed the CH stays on i.e. the boiler goes through the motions of heating the water turning off for a while presumably as it reaches it's own temperature and then coming back on again 5-10...

Worked it out anyway :roll:

Hi, I’ve bought the LightwaveRF JSJSLW420 & JSJSLW450 to control the usual shared switch landing light scenario but I need help with the wiring and if it’s even possible… We had a spotlight added upstairs to point to a painting, when the electrician did it there wasn’t enough space to feed...