Search results

I have seen laminate plasterboards (i.e. with insulation attached) with integrated vapour check/barrier. However I have also seen them without the vapour barrier and in fact I can get some of these cheap at the moment. I have been advised that I can put a poly sheet vapour barrier on the...

Another question: 13) Most of the literature only ever talks about insulating down to floor level. Is it a bad idea to remove floorboards and insulate down to celing level of the room below? As long as I ensure there is a barrier between the top face of the ceiling structure and bottom of...

I am about to insulate my solid walled extension (of a 1936 cavity walled house – not sure of the date of the extension). The solid wall is twin skin, around 9" thick. The Options I had set my heart on using wood fibre boards (i.e. PavaWall, Pavatherm, Pavatex, Diffutherm, etc), but in...

I am looking into insulating my solid walled extension (of a 1936 cavity walled house – not sure of the date of the extension) in the next few months to make the bedroom more habitable for a new arrival! Please see //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=74120 for details on the...

Thanks all. So if the liner is indeed there for damp proofing and the vents have been blocked up from a previous renovation (?) should I: 1) Maintain the liner? If someone were to build a twin skim solid wall these days would they have this liner? If not how would they deal with...

Rob Thanks for the reply. As far as I am aware and can see the vents haven't been blocked up, they just don't seem to go anywhere! I can see them on the outside but there are no vents inside - this is why I was wondering if this was just a weird form of solid wall construction (along with...

I am looking into insulating my solid walled extension (of a 1936 cavity walled house – not sure of the date of the extension) in the next few months to make the bedroom more habitable for a new arrival! At the moment the room is very cold and I suspect it has a damp problem – there is...

OK I went to B&Q last night and picked up some "Unibond Ultra Rapid Set+ Floor Adhesive". This claims to be able to level and fix up to 20mm depth so sounds like it is just up my street. The one thing that concerns me is that it does not say it is flexible BUT it does explicitly state that...

Oh and the area is only around 2.5m2 so not very big at all. Any help much appreciated.

I have a concrete bathroom floor. On the whole it is in pretty good nick but there are a few patches of dusty/crumbly areas. I want to lay 6mm Marmox down before the tiler comes on Monday to lay the tiles. The floor is not perfectly level as it is, there are a few humps. Can I use...

Thanks. I was going to remove WC and sink/pedestal before laying floor. But I do have a bath in the room which I was going to lay the floot around (not under). What do I do about the exposed edge of the floor that will be under the bath behind the nath panels? Is it OK to leave this...

I have seen concerns raised about solid wood floors in bathrooms due to moisture. I was originally going to lay travertine floor tiles but have decided that these are too cold - yes I know you can add underfloor heating but that is extra outlay and running cost. I like the idea of a...

Thanks ChrisR. I know I don't have a check valve installed currently so I guess I'll put one in. House is c.1936 so probably not up to date on regs! Are you saying the shock arrestor is good enough to handle the expansion of trapped water in the pipes or only there to reduce the hammer...

Somebody, anybody? I think I am going to fit a water softener as well (with hiflow hoses/valves) so presumably I need a check valve anyway to meet water byelaws? Can you get full bore check valves?

I have mains pressure hot water provided by a DPS GXV Heatbank. I am suffering a bit from water hammer which I'll admit is probably mostly down to unsecured pipework. However I have noticed that when no water is being demanded from within my house I still suffer from occasional hammer -...

Cheers guys moosehead: I had thought of fitting to the wall but that opens up a whole new set of questions like: - how far do I have to channel into the wall to embed the pipes and how far do the tap/spout connectors go into the wall? - how are the taps/spout fixed to the wall or are...

moosehead: I agree, very nice site. Nearly choked on my early morning coffee. Thanks for the link but these are way too modern for me. I am looking for something traditional like (from Deva): or Supposedly the centres for the pillar mixers are 180mm and 105-255mm...

I am about to fit a new (compact) bath in what is currently just a shower room (cubicle is going in favour of over-bath shower). I have recently installed a DPS GXV Heat Bank that gives me lashings of lovely mains pressure hot water. Vitra Rialto: 1700 x 750(head)/500(foot) The fat end...

Thanks for the reply. Would there be any benefit in connecting 40mm pipe to a 32mm trap via a suitable coupler? Both traps I have ordered are 32mm. Cheers

Thanks ChrisR. I actually have a DPS GXV thermal store/heat bank. This gives me mains pressure hot water, so effectively both CW and HW will be at mains pressure. From your reply I take it that 22mm would be overkill for the shower (since it all has to go through the shower hose - good...