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Yeah, I specifically wanted it moved to the left cupboard, so I can remodel the right side of the kitchen, if they'd left it where it was, they would have reconnected the pipework, but it would have been in the way. The meter was actually in the hole, half in half out, the units had been...

So npower arranged for the transporter to come out to a faulty/dangerous meter. They moved it onto a bracket, but didn't reconnect my side. No charge.

My poor editing skills I'm afraid.. fixed.

Thanks, I have a disability where I cannot physically stand there and do washing up, so I got a juicer to try to help with energy, but I can't face washing it, so for me, I consider a dishwasher is absolutely essential. I only work 29 hours a week, so I don't have a huge disposable income, so...

Really it could do with moving over to the left a half meter, inside a cupboard. I wanted to put a dish washer in, and removing the base units would leave the meter just out in the room, on this block, where anyone could kick the block or the meter accidentally. The pipe can be hidden behind...

Have rang through to the National Grid gas helpline, they say this is a supplier issue, so I'll ring npower on Monday. With regard to cost and liability, you think remedial work would be at my expense? I'll update when I get an answer.

As requested, pic of top side of meter, you can see supply pipe, etc. And the depth isn't quite clear, so this shows the gap from the wall and no supporting bracket.

Great, I'll just have it removed then, if neither the supplier or the transporter own it..

Nope. I think the inlet pipe and the one leg on the block are the only support.

So I'm running some earth cable before the electrician comes to sign off, and I just found my gas meter is supported by one leg on a block of wood.. Who would have installed this, is it dangerous, and who's responsibility would it be to fix the situation? The meter belongs to the gas...

Out of interest, what would you change it for? I don't know where that cable goes yet, but I believe it's to the existing programmer from the connection locations. Three core and earth with black brown and grey conductors would be suitable? Also, the flex with the earth from the cylinder...

A leg from something was in contact with a trace, bent it back a bit, hey presto. probably only last a week now it's been shorting itself..

Broken.. Now fixed. Thanks for everyone who replied, I can get the rest of the wiring sorted out and get the new programmer in..

ok.. I ripped the thing open.. pretty solid state.. looks like main dial is connected to a basic rheostat?

NO, there is not an audible click as it passes anywhere on the dial. It's supposed to be electronic though? There is no access to the front of the unit, it only clips to the back plate, so I cant open it to see what's in there.

like this.. I'm exchanging these junction boxes for WAGO lever connectors and boxing them up. The red cable at the top RHS was so burned up it's black in the photo.

Yeah, bit of a joke right? All how I found it though, not my work. Like I said, the Y plan diagram shows power should be fed to the control box and distributed out.. nothing connected on 1.. and the earth to the stat has no sleeve.. I will fix all the wiring issues, but any clue why this...

Yes, matches and works fine. This is the old stat, wiring as I found it. New stat doesnt work when wired up. The Salus RT200. I dont know why a wire for wire, like for like connection to a new stat should fail.

Yeah, fitted the front plate to back plate.. And the red colouring on the cyclinder stat cable was just to differentiate it from the T&E next to it - because again it's just a 3 core flex.

Hi, I'm finally giving in and asking for help on this. I have a Honeywell T6360B - fairly common from the amount of reading I've done. Main source of advice was here; http://www.dancingfrog.co.uk/posts/2013-08-24-honeywell-t6360b-thermostat-wiring and this is a pic of my T6360B 1 -...