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Hi. Thank you for the explanation I also guess that when it is two things at the same time its harder to fix and longer. I have set the new prog to P which I assume is pump and not G which I assume is gravity?

OK every setting now appears to be working as expected. I quickly tried the old prog box which we decided was broken and it was and was doing weird things so it was a combination of a faulty prog box and the incorrect wiring of the prog box. Guys a big thank you to you all. I am really...

!!! OK this seems to have worked !!! I will test in a few ways etc and feedback in 5 mins

Ah, sorry understand now :S So like this:

I do have hot water ...but this might not a fair result as I have had the water on today to keep the house warm when the other programmer was broken and I previously manually set the valve to mid position and locked.

Is this what you are suggesting? Should I try this now as a test or after the current tests I am trying?

I turned the cyl stat down to 50c and there was no click and nothing changed

With CH only on at Prog the valve moves to the mid position and nothing else, when I press water the pump starts and I hear the boiler start up.

With CH only on at Prog the valve moves to the mid position and nothing else, when I press water the pump starts and I hear the boiler start up. Yes I have circled with the same colours the different ends of each wire from the prog box to the wiring box

Before I try, the boiler also lets me set temp for the Rads and the water, what should I have these set to if it might make a difference? Also some info as just checked so might be useful. On the valve grey wire there is also the programmers right hand side Earth wire and the yellow from the...

Whilst CH only at programmer, room thermostat is high and the valve has moved to mid position I get the following: Valve White to Valve Blue = 235V & Valve Grey to Valve Blue = 68V

OK I will go investigate and check the wiring feedbacking once I understand a little more. In mean time I checked the wires from the programmer as I think this what was also requested

Thanks for the additional detail. From the Cyl Stat there is a yellow wire that is connected to the Valve grey. Do I need to let the hot water cool down till is moves to heating only?

Hi. Firstly thank you everyone for your help and advise so far. Sorry I am not really following the last post. Could so some please explain with a little more detail and any testing I can do? I have checked and there is a Cylinder Stat a ACL HTS 2 and it is set to 65c.

At last a partly good update! I swapped out the programmer and now I get the following results every time I test: At the programmer CH only on the thermostat I get 240V So this is different to the older programmer. I then checked the White and Blue at the wiring box and with the thermostat...

OK just checked and odd result: With everything off at programmer if I press CH on, wait, water on, wait, water off I get on the Thermostat: Turned up = 232V Turned down = 232V Thinking this was odd I turned everything off on the programmer and then turned on CH only and on the...

Thank you very much for the break down I will digest that and go test things again. Thanks

Is this the result I should expect? or does this highlight an issue?

Hi, Yes when checking the V on the thermostat the heating only is on at the programmer and I get 000 (just checked again)

With the programmer connected I and heat only selected at the thermostat reading from blue and red I get 000 I also checked the following with heat on and thermostat high: 1 = 000 2 = 240 FYI there is not guide on the back on the face plate as it has not been filled in :(