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    * Resolved * Air in the central heating system

    I'm glad you posted this, because it prompted me to have another look at my TF1 Total. Earlier in the year I had all new radiators and pipes but kept the old boiler and the TF1. I started to get air in the system (I expected some initially after refill) - with it seeming to get worse each day...
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    Dehumidifier or PIV system

    I have the Drimaster 365 model, so it runs all year round, and in the summer it moves a diverter flap to pull in air from outside, rather than the attic. I'm not convinced it actually makes that much difference compared to a standard Drimaster running in the mode with the >23C limit disabled...
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    Dehumidifier or PIV system

    I can't speak for dehumidifers (never tried one), but I was in a similar position as the OP, with a 2-bed bungalow, except that I already had an extractor hood in the kitchen, a bathroom extractor, condensing tumble dryer and I made use of the night vent lock position on the windows. Between...
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    Loft Insulation at eaves

    I just re-read what I wrote, not clear. :oops: It's not completely uninsulated; the original pink insulation runs right to the edges of the ceiling, up to the wall plates, but it's only about an inch thick. There isn't enough height to get the full depth of insulation into the gap between the...
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    Replace DGU with Insulated Panel - U-Value?

    I went to a local company, pretty much the same price as online, cut to size, MDF reinforcing. They lent me a stack of uPVC sample swatches - lots of variations of white/beige - and one of them matches pretty much perfectly. In hindsight pure white from eBay would have looked horrendous - I...
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    Replace DGU with Insulated Panel - U-Value?

    Hi, I currently have fully glazed uPVC front door with mid-rail, along with matching side panels, total width 2.1m. In the summer, the hall gets extremely hot. In the winter, it's cold (but this is less of a problem). I'm looking into replacing the lower panels with solid panels...
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    Loft Insulation at eaves

    I have a early 1970s bungalow, with typical low pitch roof. The tiles are interlocking concrete tile (look like Marley Wessex) and there is black "felt" underneath. The timber soffits and fascias do not have any visible vents. Under the last row of tiles there is some kind of plastic moulding...
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    Mixer tap leaking around base

    Silicone did the trick. 8)
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    Mixer tap leaking around base

    In my bathroom, I have a Roper Rhodes New England basin with Roper Rhodes Insight mixer tap. I have noticed that water is able to get underneath the sink through the tap hole (i.e. water that has already been run out of the tap correctly, and has either been splashed onto the basin, or...
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    Larder unit to sink unit - end panel question

    Thanks, that's the direction I was leaning.
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    Larder unit to sink unit - end panel question

    For a continuous run of units, with a tall larder cupboard stepping down to a sink unit, would you put a full height end panel on the side of the larder unit, or just from the worktop to top of larder unit?
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    Improve Ventilation - design comments

    I have a small 2 bedroom bungalow with limited ventilation provision and I'm currently experiencing problems with condensation running down the double glazed windows. The windows do not have trickle vents, and I have been using the "lock open" position 24/7 to mitigate the problems, but don't...
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  14. Ventilation

    Ventilation

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    Floor preparation - Concrete, bitumen adhesive, Marley tiles

    Thanks for your reply. It was built 1970/71. I would like to think (but have not proven) that there is a separate DPM if only because the black tile adhesive hasn't been applied to the edges of rooms (although the tiles were), nor was it tiled underneath kitchen cupboards (bare concrete).
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    Floor preparation - Concrete, bitumen adhesive, Marley tiles

    I have an early 1970s bungalow with concrete floor. Every room was covered in thermoplastic ("Marley") tiles, attached with a thin layer of bituminous adhesive. The tiles have been removed in some rooms, leaving the bitumen, probably <1mm thick, and not sticky. In most rooms, the tiles are...
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    Fixings for "hi-load" brackets

    Hi, Can somebody help me with what fixings would be most suitable to attach these brackets to a blockwork wall: Hi-Load Bracket 250x250mm (120kg) Thanks[/url]
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    Poor worktop join - any hope?

    The second kitchen fitter was able to put everything right without issue. The Colorfill on the join wasn't really doing anything - as soon as the bolts were undone (not even done up tight, as it turns out), the pieces of worktop pulled apart easily, needing just a bit of cleaning up. They've...
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    Poor worktop join - any hope?

    Thanks for your replies. I'm getting somebody in to have a look at what can be done.
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    Poor worktop join - any hope?

    I've had a kitchen "fitted", by someone who was recommended to me, but doesn't appear to have a clue what he was doing. He spent most of the time whining about how difficult the Axiom worktops are to work with. Most of his bodges I've solved myself, but the problems are the worktops -...
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