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So I have a 1907 terraced house and I'd like to tidy up a gable at the front of the property with vertical hung tiles - and I've finally got scaffolding up and can get a proper look at the job - here's a pic.. You can see a few tiles which have been fixed in place with adhesive and some more...

Thanks bobasd. The diagram / instructions were relatively poor. The instructions were so generic that they talked about making a good seal between the tap and the bath. Certainly no tolerances mentioned. It's a standalone thing. Just two valves and the spout, though I don't particularly have an...

Yes, that's what I'd seen originally and why I was surprised my own tap didn't have that flange. Now I understand a bit more about how it works it seems like it could be do-able. Reading other threads it seems like people are having issues with larger mismatches like 10-15mm so maybe a couple...

Hmm, not sure I understand the bit about the pipe clips substiting for a flange. I get that I can vary the board depth by varying where it's fixed but I can't see how there's any option to do this after it's tiled. To be honest, I'm fairly certain I could make the depth of any backplate elbow...

Thanks!

Not sure I understand what you're saying here

Thanks both for the suggestions. As a bit more context I'll be tiling floor to ceiling then fitting a roll-top shower bath so there won't be any option of access from below. I'll likely do the pipework and pay a tiler though I wouldn't rule out getting a plumber. But either way, plumbing and...

So I've got a three piece wall mounted tap that I'd like to fit in a solid wall in my bathroom (Hudson Reed Topaz - https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/products/traditional/taps/topaz-hexagonal/BC309HX). It's back to briclk at the moment ten I'll be adding battens, insulation, aquapanel and tiles so...

Just to update, in the end I went with conny's suggestion of rebuilding the arch. Having built a timber frame I intended to replace one brick at a time, but once I got started it became clear the course above were supporting themselves. I was able to remove the entire course without any dropping...

The plywood support sounds like a good suggestion. Think I prefer this approach as it's less destructive and leaves the option of making a feature out of the brickwork.

Thanks - figured that was probably the safest solution, though also the most work. Just can't help thinking that if it was designed to work without a lintel I should be able to keep it that way!

Hi, Just in the process of opening up an old fireplace in my second bedroom to create an alcove. House is a Victorian terrace built circa 1880. I have removed the blockwork infill to get back to the original opening, which is around 50cm wide. At the top of the opening is a soldier course...