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Lack of support from a supplier is most annoying.....you get what you pay for that is for sure.

We do both the UFH & liquid screed & are based in Doncaster. The liquid screed @ 50mm is by far the best floor to put down - better response and much harder than a sand / cement screed.

I've been in the UFH for 20+ years - this is always by far the best and lowest cost way to heat a property. Investment on a heatpump (HP) is a great idea if you plan to stay in the property. As you mention you are not you can still do a few things to make the running cost attractive to future...

Main problem you will have is heat migrating downwards due to lack of insulation. It will actually work but you are likely to get issues with the tile finish.

Looks like I need to brush up on my French!!

Ofay: "being aware of, knowing something" :)

Unfortunately I am not ofay with the Evohome arrangement. The type of wiring centre should not really make much difference other that if you are using low voltage V main voltage. I will see if I can dig out a standard hydraulic arrangement but as first mentioned I have not used the Evohome.

Hi MandM65. You should not need a low loss header. The boiler has a hot water priority which means the HW is done independently of the CH. If you have a combination of UFH & Rads then each can be controlled by using a simple 2 port zone valve on each - one or both can then call for heat from...

You are welcome the main thing is the problem had been found. As St0rmer says zoning is relatively easy as he has to drain the primaries to correct his pipework.

Conclusion reached then. It was good to eliminate other possibilities!! A point to Dan I think :lol: Solution easy - swap the connections; an unpaid job for the plumber if you want him back in the house. Schoolboy error without doubt.

Agreed rather frustrating!!

I would say it happens when that is all he has got on the van - but no it should not happen - the whole idea of insulation is to reduce transmission heatloss; if the insulation does not fit then it will not do a proper job.

Hi Dan Yes you are right I suspect - we were trying to eliminate other possibilities in the absence of the plumber!

Can you see if the flow from the boiler (should be marked on the boiler) goes to the left side connection on the manifold.

looking closer at the blending valve head - if it is not obvious that it can be unscrewed with ease do not remove it as I cant tell from the info sheet if it can be removed - usually the connection is the same as a TRV on a radiator - a threaded ring with a centre pin. If its been made as a...

Well that rings a few alarm bells. The bottom rail is the return rail so should not be the first to get hot. The top rail should - which is the flow rail (supply from boiler). Which connection pipe on the manifold (to & from the boiler) gets hot first? If it is the left connection the flow is...

I never like to be beaten on issues like this! When you first turn the heating on which pipe and which manifold rail gets hot first?

Agreed Dan.

I certainly hope it works out - will be interesting to hear the solution. I'm rather glad the kit I use seems rather simpler!!

Looking at the Wunda manifold on their web site - it appears that the return primary connection is on the bottom right of the manifold therefore you really only have a fill point as the connection occupies what would normally be the drain point. I think you have an issue with air and possibly...