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yes both lights top bunk and bottom bunk they have switches on them

Hi all, looking for some guidance, i want to fit a 4g lte router in the back of my caravan and usb sockets by the bunk beds, running off leisure battery so can still use it off grid. there's a wardrobe/locker at the back of the van and wondered whether i could get my feed from existing wiring...

thanks for your posts, is there anyway to confirm this? its been cut out already when the water tank was installed - water tank was installed when house was built so think ur right woody.

how would i relocate it? also it finishes to the right of the hatch (middle of the span) would shortening it to left of the hatch be a problem?

Sorry i never updated this post - this was the result in the end - thanks for the advice and ideas! just updating incase anyone else comes across a similar problem... happy with the result, solid floor and still no creaks 18 months on :)

Hi all, just want to clarify before going ahead and because i never seem to have this kind of luck but i'm looking to extend my loft hatch and luckily the existing hatch sits between the two joists and only need to remove the existing frame/noggin and cutout plasterboard, just wanted to see...

Many thanks for the response!!! :-) just wanted to make sure i weren't making a true rookie mistake!

Hi all, i'm an eager DIYer but always cautious if i don't know exactly what i'm doing so thought i'd seek good advice :-) moved into property 6 months ago and the flooring on the landing is horrendous, creak central!!!! the better half is ready to kill me when i wake the lil' one up coming to...

there's no space at the back of the dishwater or side to be able to come into the cupboard over the top without kinking/squishing the pipe, the bottom of dishwater has indent for pipe to run across which is why it comes in from bottom of the cupboard but thanks for suggestion. unfortunately...

Hi all, hoping someone can help me - complete novice so go easy on me! lol i've replaced the kitchen sink and installed dishwasher however get "gurgling" and ticking noises whenever dishwasher drains or a lot water goes down sink... i'm assuming it's how i've connected it all up, after reading...

but i wouldn't of spotted it if you hadn't pointed me in the right and been so persistent - yes hopefully this thread could now be useful to others in the future :-)

.....aaaaaaaaannnnnnddddd it's working!!!! yay! thanks so much everyone especially you stem! connected cable to T1 (HW OFF) in Tado extension kit to the T10 being used by yellow cable for hot cylinder stat and grey cable from mid actuator valve and hey presto!

Awesome - tado came with wire so will use that - will be tomorrow now before i try but i will still post wiring here just incase to double check before i do it... Thats for all your help so far lads, learnt alot :-)

is it definitely a 3 port valve i have then? as the was questioned at start of this thread that system can't work independently without some plumbing work done? and you are right the heating only doesn't work when water is switched off... when tado support change the interface i thought it was...

but it does appear to be working.... i'm not entirely convinced though....although i'm wondering them making "changes to the interface settings" whether when i set programmer to central heating on and hot water off it's actually just calling for both (appearing to work with hot water set to off)...

thanks flameport! nice to be reassured! _________________________________ thanks for all your replies - tado support have finally just got back to me and said they have changed the interface remotely and just testing it, it now appears to be working independently boiler fires up when turning...

i think i'm confusing myself now lol

i also didn't have cable in term 3 on room stats it just had L and 2

looking at the plan stem sent of wiring i'm just missing cable going from terminal 7 to HW off on programmer... am i right? surely that's not all it needs?

i don't know if those pics help more?