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Hello everyone, I have a planning question which I wanted to run by the experts. My house has a detached brick-built barn (built c1910) at the end of the garden. The barn comprises two ground-level rooms (10ft x 10ft and 15ft x 10ft). Each of the downstairs rooms has a pair of old...

Hello, I'm planning on having a single storey extension built onto the rear of my house. It will be 6m x 4m in size with a flat roof. For a bit more light and interest I would like a rectangular roof lantern too. I am interested to get an idea of the cost associated with this work. It...

Hello, I posted yesterday re problem with my room stat not working. Various members were very helpful - so thanks again. I've got to the bottom of the problem now - it is definitely a faulty room thermostat. I was incorrect yesterday when I said there was no power going to the stat -...

To test for power on the stat terminals, I used one of those electricians screwdrivers – the ones with the neon bulb in the handle. That did not light on any of the terminals. The driver works fine as I tested it on a light switch and it lit up as usual. So, from that I assumed no power...

I have a bit of an update. Perhaps this will make things clearer. I noticed last night that when the room stat is in place (wired in), the boiler fires the heating all the time. Regardless of whether the room stat is at 10 degrees or 30. However, if I take the room stat off the wall...

Hmm - the HW one does not seem to move - seems to stay in the same place. But the water heats up OK (so must be "on"). Should it move too and fro as the water is switched on and off?

Not sure it's the valve. As the CH is switched on and off it moves from one position to the other making a motorised "whir". I think that's what it is supposed to do...

OK - I've got the 2 valves in the cupboard - each one with a little lever on it (on / off I guess). How can I test the theory? Sorry to be dim - but it sounds like something I can try myself! Not a plumber you see... Ed

Would that explain the lack of live power to the stat?

Hi there, I have the following problem: - Both CH and HW work fine. Boiler fires and timer works correctly. - But for CH, the room stat does not close off boiler, even when turned right down I have done some investigation. The room stat has L, N, E and Call connections. When I...

Brilliant - thanks for that. I am a competent DIYer (fitted numerous kitchens and bathrooms etc). Like to DIY as it saves money; I always check with electrics as,although I understand how it all works, I do not know the regs or potential issues with doing things a bit differently like this...

Hello, I have a [hopefully] simple question. I wish to mount an LCD TV half way up my living room wall. I want to get the power lead to the TV without having to channel into the walls or build a false wall behind which I can lose the cables. This is because I have just redecorated the...

Hi there, I currently have a relatively modern garvity fed heating system with gas condensor boiler (a Potterton Profile boiler). I wish to replace the boiler with a modern combi-boiler as I wish to free up the space which is currently occupied by my cold water storage and hot water tank...

They fit into your drill just like a standard drill bit. You then fit the holesaw onto the ‘drill bit’ and hey presto, you have a rotating hole cutter. The drill bit protrudes beyond the depth of the hole cutter so that you can position your drill bit in the centre of the hole you want to...

Forget buying a jigsaw – you need to buy an arbor and a holesaw. Holesaws are very cheap - I'd go for a set like this which contains all you need: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100220&ts=56910&id=11002 80mm not in there, but I'm sure you'll find one by searching around...

Thanks for all the replies. I will probably go for the MDF option... Golfer1

Hello chaps, I've just bought a new house which comes with a 13' x 6' workshop :lol: The workshop is built onto the side of the house, so has one solid brick wall and three shed-style wooden walls. I want to build a 10' workbench along the length of the house wall, and was wondering...

Again, I'm no expert, but I would either: Screw batons to the wall and attach the plaster board to the batons (you might be able to use glue to attach the board to the batons, but countersunk screws filled screws may be better). OR Screw the board directly to the wall. If you do this...

Yeah - I'd def go for that approach then - particularly if it's inside the cupboard. I did a similar thing in my understairs cupbaord which was pretty manky - old Victorian plaster work which had never been touched. Bit of filler and a good sand on the joints and you won't see 'em - well...

I'm no expert, but could you not pasterboard over the wall ( I presume it's not a huge area) and skim the joints. Wouldn't perhaps be perfect, but I reckon the finish would be better than trying to plaster it if you're not experienced at plastering. I'm assuming that the cracked wall is not...